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| xdriller | profile | all galleries >> Galleries >> China Journal | tree view | thumbnails | slideshow |
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Day 1 (or two or three?),
Because Ann and I are not known for over-spending on any of our trips we were in transit portal to portal, Woodinville to our Shanghai hotel for 34 hours: Seattle to Oakland; Oakland to LAX; LAX to Seoul; Seoul to Shanghai. (SeaTac to Shanghai should be no more than 13 hours nonstop).
It is with not a wee bit of trepidation we have embarked upon a new adventure for us – The Organized Tour. Never have we done this and we will see if we ever try it again. But we immediately met our first tour compatriots at LAX in line at Korean Air followed soon by another couple. They seemed quite nice. Then on board the plane Ann sat next to another tour person, a single. He is a Romanian born and educated physicist about 50 years old living in Dallas. Ann and Eugene became fast friends (well, duh). They even planned excursions to go on outside the tour during our free time. I think I am invited but I will wait and see!
Now for my positive rant of the day. Can a rant be positive? Anyway, my best friend ever is Susan who lives in Redmond. In true ghetto style, Susan is my “supplier”, a drug dealer. My new drug of choice is Ambien and I get it from her under a streetlight on a street corner on the mean streets of Redmond Ridge.
Just WOW is how I describe this outstanding sleeping pill for all-night flights over the frigid North Pacific. I was warned by Susan that the pill is best taken no more than a few steps from a bed. Since we were to have a meal served 2 hours into the LA-Seoul 13 hour flight and Ambien is best absorbed when not taken with food, I took the pill on the plane 30 minutes before dinner was to be served. The dinner, as I remember in a haze, was some Korean concoction of “interesting” aromas. I took one bite and awoke five hours later with all the airplanes interior lights off, my dinner tray gone and everyone else on the plane asleep. So, I went back to sleep. That makes for a shorter flight than expected since this is the first time I have successfully slept on a plane. Kudos to Susan!
We arrived in Seoul then on to Shanghai three hours later. We met our entire group and were driven to our hotel – no searching for the hotel as Ann and I usually do. This is so easy! We then got back onto our bus for a short orientation tour of the city and walk along the Shanghai waterfront, the Bund, followed by a dinner with the group. Again, there was no hunting for a decent restaurant. I like having people do the work for me since I am exhausted at present. Perhaps also is it because I am getting old? NO.
Shanghai is cosmopolitan, modern, frenetic major world city. Tomorrow I hope to see more of this interesting place through the eyes of a well-rested tourist. I am now sitting in the dark hotel restaurant at 5 am, alone except for the service workers making ready for the day. I am rested and ready to take on the land beyond the Bamboo Curtain!
Thought for the day: Ambien, when on vacation, like the old Visa card slogan – “Never leave home without it”.
As it turned out being rested was quite important as we left the hotel at 7:50 am and finally were allowed to get back to the hotel at 10:30 pm. There was no concession for any residual jet lag. Off we went to the Yu Gardens. Yes, Ann was in heaven visiting her first real Asian contemplative garden. She found it difficult to achieve calm, though, in the mass of humanity in the various “rooms” of this magnificent former private garden in the center of Shanghai.
Then we were taken to a Silk Museum AKA silk retail store where we learned much more about the silk process that I ever knew or wanted to know. So, I left the museum and walked the streets somewhere in Shanghai while others shopped silk. That was fascinating going into shops of the other, non tourist, dingy, dirty Shanghai.
Then on to the Shanghai Museum. I guess I was not into a “museum” mode yesterday because having a beer in the closed restaurant on the first floor was the highlight of the visit there. That is not to say it wasn’t a magnificent, modern museum with a wealth of Chinese history. So, I wandered out to the adjacent Peoples Square while waiting for the museum visit to end – fully beered. The adjacent square is, I am told, is one of the most beautiful modern examples of feng shui. Now if I just knew what feng shui actually meant…
We were allowed to get back to the hotel for a quick hour before we headed out to dinner and the Shanghai Acrobatic show. Friday night on the byways of Shanghai was an adventure in itself. A 45 minute ride took us 90 minutes but the highlight was having our bus make a u turn in front of an ambulance with its lights and siren on. But it just seemed so natural in the helter-skelter world of the Shanghai traffic of pedestrians, bicycles, motorbikes and vehicles all doing a chaotic but choreographed dance. The scary thing is we are not even in Beijing yet where the traffic is supposedly “bad”.
The Shanghai Acrobats were just amazing but there was one problem. On our second day with a full day of being on the go and having dinner prior, the sight of our group in the first three rows center of the balcony was oddly hilarious. As I scanned around our group, they looked like bobble head dolls. Heads were dropping as sleep overcame the poor souls but then their heads bobbed up again as that startled them awake; then it would start all over again. I was not immune to this so when we arrived at the hotel I do not remember going to bed – only waking up in the morning.
Thought for the day: The only thing to contemplate in the Yu Garden was why the majority of the billion Chinese were there with us.
Today it rained in Shanghai. It made little difference since today after breakfast we were driven to the airport for our flight into Beijing on China Eastern Airlines. I assumed the plane would be a vintage 1950s prop plane with emergency parachutes strapped on our backs for this internal flight but it turned out to be an Airbus 330.
On to the Chinese capital of Beijing. I had heard of the pollution and traffic here long before we even thought about this trip. I grew up in LA. Pollution and traffic are not new to me. Let me state this categorically: Nothing could have prepared me for what I was about to see in this city. Today was a hazy 60F day. The visibility was less than a mile. The air smelled like the 4th of July after the fireworks are over - the acrid smell of sulfur, actually sulfuric acid. The traffic was stop and go for the many miles from the airport. This is a Saturday. The Chinese by their own admission describe their driving style as Jungle Rules. This is kind. Whether it is in Rome, Paris, Madrid or Bogota nothing compares to the free for all that is Beijing traffic.
After visiting the Beijing Zoo to see the Pandas we had a fantastic group dinner of Peking Duck. Stuffed, we got to our hotel and can now relax for a couple of hours before bed and wakeup call at 6 am tomorrow morning.
Our tour guide, Joy, is a cute, perky, petite 40 year old who looks 25 with an interesting history. She received a scholarship to Brown University in Rhode Island in 1989. Because she could not get an exit visa from the Chinese government she had to decline the scholarship and instead entered Beijing University, the best in her country, majoring in marketing with the hope of working for the Bank of China. After graduating there were no openings for the bank so the government gave her a job in the travel industry. If you refused the job at that time you would never get a decent job since the government controlled all jobs. Times have changed with the opening of free enterprise so she now works as an independent contractor leading tour groups. As a result she is really quite brilliant. She can answer any number of questions on any subject Chinese and enthralls the group with her wide range of knowledge. She also never misses a chance to get her digs in concerning the government and politics of her country. Think about it: Here is a woman who could get into an Ivy League college on scholarship but instead leads tour groups.
Thought for the day: No matter how all inclusive were our breakfasts in Shanghai there was no PEANUT BUTTER to be found on the buffet!
After the breakfast we were all exhausted from fighting for our life sustaining nutrition but we headed to a jade factory. Another “demonstration of the product” was followed by a showroom for retail sales. This is where the jade metals for the Olympic winners were constructed for the 2008 Olympics. I must say this was more interesting than the silk factory mostly because some of these carved and polished huge, intricate sculptures cost as much as $85,000 (but you could barter them down to $79,000 I am sure). Ann thought some would look nice in our garden but I reminded her we have enough rocks already.
Off we went to attack the Great Wall of China. Unfortunately the weather was brutal – cold and windy with a steady downpour. Any amount of time outside in the elements produced soaked clothes since the rain was coming down almost horizontally. Even umbrellas were only partially successful. Walking the wall was nearly impossible due to the slippery stepping stones. We saw it, we walked it and we left completely soaked to the skin, frozen. Check that off the life list.
But in China there is the yin and yang and the sweet and sour. In other words rain today will make the second and third days here clear – free from smog. Hallelujah. All in all that may make the rain worth it. I do not know if I could have stood the severe smog and lung decay for three days.
After lunch we went to the Summer Palace. It was cold but the rain stopped and the weather was breaking. That part of the day was interesting. Ann enjoyed it more than I did I think because I was wandering taking pictures while Joy, our guide now in her city, was describing in detail the importance of the place.
I have some thoughts about going to a foreign country with a tour group. First off, our large group is a wonderful mix of personalities. There is no person I do not enjoy talking to. It is rare for me to like that many people but I do. But now that we have been in China for four days, I do not have the feeling I am in a foreign country. We are surrounded by Americans; we talk to Americans, the language is English. On our usual vacations Ann and I are on an island in a sea of foreign culture and language. Here we are in the US while in China. I can talk golf with Joe and Shelly while Ann talks the Food Channel with Connie and Jill. You get the idea. This is not exactly immersion into Chinese culture, is it?
Past vacations are delightfully stressful for us since we are out of our normal environment. This trip has been as easy as going to Spokane. Nearly everything is being done for us. We just follow the leader, as wonderful as Joy is, and are driven wherever we need to go. I seem to be learning as much about the culture, politics and economy of China as I am about the culture, politics and economy of our New York members. [Being from the West Coast New York has always seemed like a foreign country to me though!] We are not forced to interact 24/7 with people not speaking our language.
Having said that though, we are thoroughly our enjoying our trip. I do not think I would be doing as much as we are if we were on our own. The obstacles of oral and written language make this the only way for us to see China for the first time.
Since we had a full lunch (at a Chinese restaurant!) with the group this afternoon, all Ann and I wanted for dinner was to go to the large department store next to the hotel with a grocery store in the basement. This was good since this dinner was not included in the trip. We strolled through it buying our food for dinner. We had a wonderful eclectic Chinese grocery store dinner with Tsingtao Beer. A large bottle of the beer cost 4.8 RMB or 75 cents.
Thought for the day: “Into every life a little rain must fall” - even after traveling 6500 miles to see a wall.
In the Temple of Heaven gardens we saw the Chinese engaging in their daily ritual of Tai Chi. Hundreds of locals were in groups of ten to thirty each doing different forms of exercise in the park. Ann tried the Tai Chi with the locals. Yes it was hilarious. I tried another form of exercise using something like a large ping pong paddle with a trampoline like fabric inside the frame. Using the ball I attempted to do various movements while rotating the paddle 360 degrees in long arcing movements keeping ball in contact with the paddle. As with Ann this must have been a hilarious sight. I thanked the lady who let me borrow her paddle and ball. She tried so hard to instruct this spastic American to do something so simple but I made her fail in her teaching.
Next we visited the Hutongs of Beijing. These are the very old residential housing around central courtyards on narrow streets in the center of town. There we all rode rickshaws to a family home to have a lunch cooked and served by a family in the Hutong. This was a typical meal of families in Beijing. It was good and beer was served also! Then back on the rickshaws to another family home to talk with the man of the house asking whatever questions we wished. I must say this was an enlightening experience. Ann and I were both very uncomfortable with the entire process. I am not sure what the motivation was for this outing sponsored by the China Tourist Agency. Many in our tour were also quite uncomfortable. I am at a loss to explain this.
Although the food was good and the families nice, the houses were not well kept – generally a mess of such proportions that I could not imagine inviting anyone to my house with it looking like that. This was a far cry from the forests of modern high rise condos in the suburbs of Beijing. There is still a lot to do to improve living conditions in this emerging giant of a country.
On the way back to the hotel we stopped at what Joy had called the Nordhoff Shop. It was to my surprise that after hearing this for two days I found out she meant the Knock-off Shops. Pirated Nike, Polo, Ralph Lauren, all manner of electronics and the usual shlock you find in all large American Chinatowns were available on five floors of this building of individual cubicles. Each space 10 feet wide had a seller who accosted us to buy as we walked along. So this accosting occurred every 10 feet! The idea is for the seller to price the object outrageously high and come down to a reasonable price (for poor quality fake Coach purses, Rolex watches, etc, that is). Ann got something for Miss Eloise that was offered at 250 Yuan. Ann got her down to 80 Yuan before buying it. Joy told us to be SURE to wash it thoroughly before giving it to Eloise so the chemicals won’t kill her. Ah, China.
So far I have resisted buying a “Rolex” watch for $3 from the street sellers.
Tonight we visited the Beijing Opera. A trip across town that should take 1.25 hours took over 2 hours. Traffic this Monday evening was horrid. We missed the first 30 minutes of a partial opera of one hour. It was short but sweet. I did not have time to become bored. Chinese “opera” is a combination of atonal music, acrobatics, stylized acting and movements, bright outrageous costuming and juggling. Yeah, interesting but it was not my cup of Chinese tea. Traffic was still stop and go at 9:45pm on the way home. The traffic has not disappointed me. It is amazing.
Thought for the day: Tai Chi requires an expertise I don’t have but I don’t mind looking like an idiot trying.
At the Square is the tomb of Chairman Mao. It is not actually him since the embalming was poorly done back in 1976 and he degenerated rapidly so it is merely a wax replica now. The line in this half mile by half mile square to visit the “body” snaked throughout the square. I asked: It takes about 3 hours to get in. Fortunately Joy did not make us do that! Across the street, well actually under the street we walked to the Forbidden City. It is very Chinese looking. The huge complex seemed to take forever to get to the end. We passed through gate after gate to emerge on the other end where the bus was there to pick us up; so nice having a driver. After a lunch with Chinese pizza (that would be regular pizza made in China) as part of the meal we learned about the various teas of China and how to brew each one. Rather like sampling single malt whisky (but not as much fun).
[Postscript: A tale of Ann
The protesters in Tiananmen Square in 1989 who were shot are not the only ones who have spilled blood on the square. Coming out of a pedestrian subway into the square Ann tripped and in a crowd of Chinese tourists and was propelled forward slamming head first onto the pavement of the square. She hit on the left temple area shattering her dark glasses causing a cut on her temple and, above her left eye, a deep bruise and swelling. The bridge of her nose was cut when the glasses broke. She wondered if her bionic knees could take the trauma.
In short she was fine (relatively) save the headache and bruises but as the days progressed she developed not one but two horrific black eyes.
Everyone in our tour group was so great to her. She did hit her head quite hard. There was a wheel chair on the bus someone went back to get; someone bought a popsicle to use as ice; bandages appeared, antiseptic wipes appeared from members of our group. There was a retired dentist, retired pediatrician, retired nurse and a veterinarian all taking care of her. She rode the wheelchair through the square and through the Forbidden City. All the men took turns pushing her so I could take pictures - they insisted. Another man, Eugene, took her camera and took pictures for her. The tour guide, Joy, procured ice for her in her room for several nights.
As the days progressed her black eyes became more impressive. First the left eye then both eyes were black hence the nickname one person gave her – “panda”.
Besides a headache there was no further damage. Even the fact she had the black eyes only bothered her when she looked in a mirror. The only person outside the group to comment on the black eyes was the immigration guard at LAX. He asked as we handed the passports if she had been out of the country having "work" done. Only in LA would two black eyes mean, as the first thought, plastic surgery!
So that is the Tale of Ann.]
I do feel that I have never felt safer traveling and walking the streets alone in any major city than the Chinese cities I have visited. I enjoy breaking from the group and wandering the streets within a city. As I walk I have my Redmond Ridge Golf cap on with an American flag on the front. I want everyone in China to know where I am from. The greeting like hello or Buenos Dias here in China is “Ni hao”. To be more formal, “Ni hao, ma”. As people pass me on the street I greet them with a big smile and “Ni hao”. Invariable the sour faces change. I get a huge grin (of really ugly teeth) and a “Ni hao” back at me. I love it. I am scared to use the more formal “Ni hao, ma” because the “ma” must be said with a rising tone. If the “ma” is said with a flat tone it means hello, horse.
The much anticipated flight to Xian into central China took off at 6:00 pm. Actually more like 6:40 as shuttling people to a full Airbus 330 one bus load at a time from the terminal gate took the extra minutes. It was like this was a new experience for them. This is a daily flight!
Tomorrow the Terra Cotta Warriors. I cannot wait.
A farmer outside the city of Xian found some clay shards in 1974 while digging a well during a drought. The fragments turned out to be over 2200 years old. The life size warriors, foot soldiers, archers, generals and cavalry with horses were in the tomb of a Qing Dynasty emperor. So far over 6,000 have been excavated. This is also the emperor who initiated the building of the Great Wall.
Going into the large structure that covers the excavation was as impressive as I had expected. The entire complex with the main excavation and Pits 1 and 2 is an impressive undertaking. Some of the unearthed warriors will not be excavated for some time so future generations can unearth them. Even the main tomb of the emperor himself has not been touched as those in charge are awaiting advancing technology not present yet before entering. I am impressed by the slow approach taken in this endeavor by the Chinese government.
Coming back to Xian we stopped at the Shaanxi Provincial Museum. Well, I personally did not. Rather I spent my time wandering the streets of Xian and finding a group of elderly people (my age!) playing a Mah Jong. There were over 50 people at tables of five all in rapt enjoyment. I took many pictures and nobody even noticed the American.
Dinner was a dumpling banquet at a quite fancy restaurant. The food was delicious and, best of all, our one or two drinks which are usually included were unlimited tonight. I only had one glass of beer but it never got below half before it was magically restored to full vitality by an attentive waiter. Very nice. Next we went to a show featuring music, dancing and colorful costumes of the Tang Dynasty. It turned out to be an extravaganza, much more that I had expected.
As I have said, I was leery of going on a vacation with a tour group. Also I was worried about the tour company, Smartours. Those questions have been answered in the positive. The final worry I had was with a large group. We have a seemingly unwieldy 41 people. This is gigantic. But a nicer group of people I could not imagine. Everyone interacts with everyone else and would do anything for the group as has been shown over and over. There are no slowpokes that cause a hold up for the rest of the group.
There is one extended group in the tour that fascinates me. Fred is from Brooklyn which he truly believes is the nexus of the universe. He is married to Chris who is from Bogota. Now, along with Fred and Chris are Fred’s sister, Tina, and Fred and Tina’s mother, Marie. It keeps on going. Paula is on the tour. She is Fred’s brother’s ex wife and she is with her second husband Barry. Barry and Paula have two friends along also. It took several days to untangle that web.
Thought for the day: How 41 people can act as one tightly knit unit is beyond me.
This is the first extended time we have spent in rural China. Driving through the farmland with rice paddies, cotton, and sweet potatoes, all the farms are small with only the families working the fields with water buffalo as tractors. In the evening we arrived in Yiching where we climbed aboard our river ship for four nights and three days. We slept on the boat this evening before departing the following morning.
On our flat screen HD TV in our stateroom aboard the ship was a broadcast the DVD of the movie “The Last Emperor”. Beautiful scenes of the Forbidden City enthralled us having just been there in person. But I soon tired of it as there was no semi-automatic weapon fire or car chase scenes. I drifted to sleep only to be awakened by the phone at 6:30 am for our wake up call. Fortunately I missed the 6:00 am Tai Chi this morning on the upper deck. Maybe tomorrow…
We docked at the Three Gorges Dam city of Sandouping. There a bus took us to view the dam. We had to go through security like at the airport to get to the viewing areas, i.e. off the bus through security back on the bus. For all of this hassle we were not even allowed near the dam much less into the dam to view the 26 (at present) operating turbines. It was interesting but even though this is the largest hydroelectric project in the world, Hoover Dam is much more impressive. The Three Gorges area, where the dam is located is less severe than the gorge at Hoover Dam. What was impressive were two facts. One is that in the entire dam project one million tons of concrete were used. Second were the locks. Since the dam raised the water level 350 feet behind it, our ship had to traverse five locks each raising the ship 70 feet. The entire process took over three hours.
Walking back to the ship after visiting the dam viewing areas, we walked through street vendors hawking their wares. Ann and three other ladies on our tour bought jackets that were made of silk (but not really, you know knock offs) to wear to the Captain’s Reception tonight. Starting out at 580 Yuan, these ladies triple teamed this guy until he finally agreed on 70Y each or about $11. I think all five in the transaction made out well. That is the Chinese way – Everyone happy, seller and buyer.
Thought for the Day: It is a shame the damn dam had so much dam pollution.
As I write this we are becalmed in the river. Not because we are a sailboat without wind but because of the recent floods from the severe typhoon activity this past summer. What we were told is that a very narrow stretch of the gorge ahead has had a landslide. Because of this the traffic on this major “highway” into the heart of China is like a summer Seattle road project: Alternating one way traffic. The helm has told us we will be stopped for about two hours. It is not really a problem but the scenery does not seem to be changing.
Gone are the days of brilliant sunshine. But we are in the usual weather pattern of central China, high overcast and haze. That gives an ethereal sense to the river, almost mystical. Well, yes mystical except for the garbage continually floating past us on the surface. Also because of the huge manufacturing city of 15 million upriver, Chongqing, industrial pollution is a severe problem. But as our dam tour guide, Echo, said yesterday “Yes, it is a little polluted”. I guess it is all in ones perspective.
Chinese cities here are huge. Seattle has maybe a half million. I suppose Tacoma slightly less. The major cities here are all in the 10 – 18 million inhabitants range. We were told that Yiching, where we boarded our ship, was a small city – 9 million. To get 1,400,000,000 people into the country many huge cities are needed.
Here on the Yangtze River we travel for miles through lonely, steep rural mountains dotted by small villages. This is quite a welcome and thankful change from ceaseless humanity of Shanghai, Beijing and Xian. The trip up the Yangtze will cover over 300 miles. Every night we “park” in the middle of the river until 6:30 am the following morning. That way we never miss any scenery.
After lunch today we went on our “shore” excursion as we do each day. Although we were always on the water that is what it was called. Some travel days are OK. Some days are horrid (Like the Great Wall downpour day). But, some days are just flat out awesome. This afternoon was flat out awesome. We got off our river cruiser (or whatever it is called) to get onto a smaller boat to sail up a tributary to the Yangtze, the Da Ning River. On this leg of the journey we traversed the Small Gorges. These were actually more impressive because of the narrow river with sheer cliffs into the water. But then we got off that boat to get onto an even smaller boat onto a smaller tributary. This was even more impressive using a Chinese sampan through the still narrower gorges with sheer cliffs of the Madu River. I set a personal one day record for pressing the camera shutter: 324 images. Later in the evening I needed an acupuncture treatment to relieve the severe finger pain (Not really).
The weather changed and was utterly amazing. No employees on the ship could believe it - deep blue skies with the brilliant sun. As sunny as it was the temperatures were a perfect 60-65F high. This was all compliments of the two and a half hour delay earlier that allowed the haze to dissipate before the excursion.
Thought for the day: Days like this make we want to travel forever.
Yes, the Yangtze River is wide at Chongqing but the far bank is barely visible through the haze and smog. I could not wait to leave the place. But Joy decided to be kind and show us the town. This was an extra for us.
Going into the big market in the center of town we for the first time got “down and dirty” and saw the gritty real China. This is the first time I felt like a true tourist. We were so out of place here it was embarrassing. In the huge fresh market on two floors of small stalls in a large building we saw all manner of meat, vegetables and spices. All products were displayed in beautiful profusion. On the way out the back there was a man beheading and draining chickens, a woman cooking pig’s feet on and a small BBQ and live ducks and chickens for sale for dinner. Yummy!
After a one hour flight to the south China city of Guilin we were taken to the Reed Flute Cave. This was nice and much has been done recently to make the walk through the cave for about an hour more beautiful with colored lights. I was not impressed. In the giant central cavern with various colored lights we stopped for a light show there. Amazingly that actually detracted from the natural beauty.
After dinner a small group of us went on a tour of the four lakes and two rivers of Guilin in the dark. Absolutely beautiful stuff. We saw local fishermen using Cormorants to do their fishing. Our local guide, with fourteen of us, was asked some interesting questions by our little group. How do you join the Communist party; how much does it cost; can you personally run for mayor of Guilin; can you protest when the government does something you disagree with. His answers brought us back to the fact that this is a communist country even as capitalist as the country outwardly looks now.
This country, the awaking sleeping giant, as it is referred cannot become a world power until two major obstacles are overcome. In my opinion pollution is a minor issue compared to these concerns. First, China has got to invent the toilet. It is not a problem for me but the ladies are learning new bathroom contortions. A hole in the floor is not defined as a toilet. Second, the water. Joy tells us where we can drink the water or ice. Nowhere can we drink the tap water. This makes keeping hydrated very difficult.
Thought for the day: A major economic power is a bit player until they understand what a “Throne” really means.
Disembarking in the river town of Yangshuo, we ran the gauntlet through the most insistent “capitalists” I have ever encountered. The tiny street was lined with schlock shops attempting to lure tourists in. In addition in the middle of the street were walking street vendors trying to sell picture books, cheap thingys and postcards. These sellers were like flies. If you stopped for a moment they were all around you. Only by maintaining a pace could you keep from being asked to buy Rolex watches, etc.
We got on jitneys and took a ride into the countryside visiting a 350 year old farmers house, another farm and rice paddies with the requisite water buffalo while driving through these spectacular karst formations. Again we were treated to the gritty underbelly of China. One thing about this tour: We are not seeing only the pretty and fancy. We are also seeing how the majority of citizens live. I am thankful for that and for our guides who want us to see it. Back to Guilin we were to a man (and woman) exhausted from these 14 days on the road. Straight to dinner and back to the room for packing tonight since our wakeup call will be at 4:30 am for our flight to Guangzhou and on to Hong Kong for our last two days.
Having spent the last seven days outside the show cities of Beijing and Shanghai, I have come to the realization that China may be an emerging economic power but the poverty and living conditions of the greater majority of the populace is generally appalling. How about this? When a new apartment is bought and my goodness are there a lot of high rises in this country being built, an additional one third of the price of the apartment is spent furnishing it. Now by furnishing I mean hiring an electrician to put in wiring, a plumber to put in plumbing, a contractor to put in floors, windows, counters and walls. Then all of the actual furniture and appliances must be bought. Workers are usually farmers coming into the cities to make money and have little expertise in construction. These, of course, are only the upwardly mobile. For most Chinese, though, buying a condo is not an issue.
I think I have truly hit the wall. I am now exhausted even though I am getting wonderful sleep. Only two days left but I cannot miss anything so I must go on!
Thought for the day: You can't tell a book by it's cover or a country by its show cities.
I have been amazed at air travel within China. I am becoming an expert as this is our fifth flight. It matters not the length of the flight - you will get food and a beverage. Our shortest flight was 50 minutes and we were still served breakfast. As Joy says, “The food may be not so good.” Really whatever is served is more than decent, usually noodles with a little meat, bread and a fruit with beer (for me). Another surprise to me is the number of air carriers here. We have flown on China Southern Airlines, China Eastern Airlines and Xiamen Airlines (That one worried me until we landed and it was a rough landing – Airbus, of course, Mr. Latter). In addition I have seen Shandong Airlines, Shanghai Airlines, Guangdong Airlines and the ever popular Air China.
One Chinese tradition I have not adopted is the enjoyment of tea. It just does not do for me what coffee does. I suppose it is from my long tradition of using this drug to wake me up and keep me awake. Last night I had two cups of tea at a late dinner and fell directly to sleep. Coffee would not have had the same lack of effect.
I am sitting in our hydrofoil at present traveling down the Pearl River out of Guangzhou then into the Pearl River Delta and Hong Kong. In the lower cabin are fourteen airline seats across in a 3-8-3 arrangement. We are in the middle of the middle eight. These are the worst seats I have ever been in. But fortunately this is only for two and a half hours – YIKES. We are among friends so it is not that bad. Also I have my best friend, my computer, with me – sorry Ann. The sky is as smoggy as Beijing and Chongqing. I can barely see the banks of the Pearl River as we travel downstream. I am placing Shunde/Guangzhou a solid #3 in the informal Bob Index of City Pollution. This is not a pretty trip so having a window seat is not really beneficial.
The food in China has been universally good. Too many vegetables for me though. We have not had nasty food as I expected to happen occasionally. We once had grass carp on the Yangtze. I tried it although Joy said not to eat river fish due to the polluted water. I think I got my minimum daily requirement of toxic heavy metals in that one bite. As the Chinese say they eat anything with wings but airplanes and anything with legs except chairs and tables. All dinners are served family style with a ‘lazy Susie’ as in a “real” Chinese restaurant in the US but without fortune cookies which were discouraged during the Cultural Revolution and never returned. I am not a great fan of Chinese food; I like Thai better, so my cravings are beginning: Taco Bell, peanut butter, potato chips of any variety and any single malt whisky.
One would think that for an American tourist the border crossing from mainland China to Hong Kong should be a snap. Show your passport, fill out a form and you are out of one country and into another. Wait a minute. Hong Kong IS China. There should be no border crossing. OK, I can understand mainland Chinese citizens having a problem since this is a special autonomous region with a different economy but why was I in two half hour lines today – one to get out and one to get into the same country. Ah, China.
A walk around Kowloon sealed the deal for me. I was spent. Dinner was on our own tonight. Several groups asked us to join them but I declined saying I wanted a romantic dinner with my bride. We found Mc Lovin’s Pub. Not really romantic, huh? It sounded so not Chinese we went in excited. Sitting on the Promenade looking over Hong Kong Harbour and Hong Kong across, we had a pint each and a gigantic burger, fries and cole saw. One of the best, and needed, burgers we have ever had. Even in the US it would be a keeper burger.
Thought for the day: A burger in China beats Chinese food in America.
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