No one really knows why Kentucky became the horse racing capital of the United States. Folks from California or New York would argue the point, but against a true Kentuckian, they will lose. The Bluegrass state’s many grassy farms are considered by most to be the best place to raise and breed horses. Horses have been an important part of Kentucky since the early frontiersmen came on horseback through the Cumberland Gap. Early on, the settlers began racing and breeding their horses. Many early races were on straight quarter-mile roads or paths. By the 1780s, the first-known circular horse racing track had been constructed in Kentucky. The most famous horse race in the United States is the Kentucky Derby at Churchill Downs in Louisville.

It was with that as a background that Sara and I jumped at a chance to attend the 133rd Run for the Roses. We had a personal guide, our cousin Kenny Wochos and his lovely wife Linda and family who hail from, of all places, Fond Du Lac WI in the heart of Packerland. The Wochos’ have attended the Derby for 25 consecutive years and understand the logistics of parking, ticket procurement, seating and betting better than most native Louisvillians. We were joined by Sara’s sister Joy and her husband Dick. A niece Jenny, a resident of Louisville and currently a law student, rounded out our group.

The Derby festivities actually begin two weeks before the day of the race, which since 1875 has always been the first Saturday in May. There are hot balloon races, steamboat races, parades, food festivals, marathons, art and music festivals, bed races, fire works displays and countless public and private Derby parties. But the highlight of the Derby is The Oaks Races on Friday and the Run for the Roses, the Kentucky Derby on Saturday.

The Oaks is often billed as the race for the common man, while the Derby, the next day, is the place to “see and be seen” by the rich and the famous. We attended both races and the cost for general admission for the Derby was almost twice that of the Oaks. By the way, the most expensive ticket for the Kentucky Derby was over $16,000 a pop for the famed Millionaire’s Row, approximately 400 times more expensive than our $40 tickets for a race that lasts about 2 minutes.

With crowds of over 100,000 for the Oaks and 156,000 for the Derby this year, a fair question might be, why in hell would you want to do the Derby? Well, all I can say is that it is an incredible experience. It is not just about the race.

If you love to gamble, the Derby is a paradise. Millions of dollars are exchanged between the track and the crowd with each race. There are 10 races each day, climaxing with the Oaks on Friday and the Derby on Saturday. Hot tips float through the crowd before each race, often on a layer of cigar smoke. Whether appearing rich or poor, betters all have a race schedule in one hand and pencil in the other, planning and writing down their next bets on the back of losing tickets with the intensity of someone making out their last will and testament. There is Win, Place, Show, Trifectas, Boxes, Quinielas, Pick 3, Pick 6, Superfectas and numerous other betting strategies I will never understand. But be sure of one thing, as the horses pass over the finish line, people scream in pure joy, groan in agonizing defeat, and tickets, presumably of the losers, fly in to the air like confetti. As the day progresses the cobblestone floors of Churchill Downs develop an ever increasing layer of discarded tickets lying there in despair, but ever protecting the ladies of the Derby as they negotiate the cobblestone in a pair of stiletto heels 5 inches high; a feat for only the brave of heart. Not once did we see a Lady fall, and if she had, the number of Southern Gentlemen ready to rush to her aid was incalculable.

If you enjoy fashion, there are few locations where you will see more people as they say “Dressed to the Nines”, where couples agonize all year on what they will wear to the Derby and spend thousands to achieve their individual “look”. By the way, the phrase “Dressed to the Nines” has several claimed origins, but most agree it refers to a famed British regiment, the 99th , known for its classy dress. Some claim it refers to the nine yards of cloth required to make a quality suit. The rich and famous of Kentucky and locations near and far join in on the show and it is a fashion event worth enjoying. Each year, we were told, a new aspect of the feminine form is emphasized. Last year the theme was the middle with bare hips and belly buttons and this year it had to be the décolletage. The plastic surgeons of Louisville must have had a pre Derby hay day.

But probably the most famous fashion statements of the Derby are the ladies’ hats. The Derby began at a time when everyone wore hats, and race track patrons wore their finest. Newspaper accounts of the first Kentucky Derby in 1875 describe a hot and dusty day where “clouds of suffocating dust” damaged “hats, ribbons, flowers, laces, silks, dainty fans and parasols.” By 1984, the tradition of the Derby hat was firmly entrenched in the images of the movie The Greatest Race. A quote from the film summed it up nicely: “I could stay home and be warm and comfortable, but I could not wear a hat.” And as expensive as a Derby dress, shoes and purse must be, how could one not top them off with a new hat, some approaching over $500 for an original design? We saw literally hundreds of hats and not one was the same.

The history and traditions of the Kentucky Derby bring many people back year after year. One Kentuckian who now lives in Prince Edward Island, Canada, told me that he is not whole if he doesn’t return each year for the Derby. In his 75 years he had missed only five. It was a time to visit with old family, old friends and see the homestead where he grew up just east of Louisville. He suggested that we visit the Kentucky Derby Museum on the grounds of Churchill Downs and I did. The displays cover two floors with interactive exhibits, a showing of The Greatest Race, and rooms of memorabilia that show what the race really means to Kentucky and the horse racing world.

If gambling, fashion or history are not your fancies, the Derby can tickle your taste buds with many original drinks and dishes. There are pulled pork BBQ sandwiches, Hot Browns from the famous Beaumont Inn which are sort of a sliced turkey open faced sandwich with eggs and tomatoes in smothering white sauce. Also there are a variety of desserts like Thoroughbred Pie which is a delicious combination of pecans, chocolate and butter with liberal amounts of good Kentucky Bourbon. While not available in the general seating at this year’s Derby, we read that several stories above us many of the Derby dignitaries, including the Queen of England and her entourage, did enjoy barbeque shrimp, Kentucky Bibb salad, braised duck with black-eyed peas, roast chicken breast with shitake mushroom cream sauce, pole beans and mint strawberries with spring biscuit. But then a Derby goer could enjoy any these Kentucky dishes at the many fashionable restaurants in Louisville before or after the race.

The one treat that most people enjoy at the Derby is a traditional Mint Julep, a drink made from sugar, water, good Kentucky whisky and a sprig of fresh mint. At the Derby they were $8 a piece, but you can make them at home for a fraction of the cost by following the recipe below. You will not, however, get an official Derby glass. At the Derby you could get a Julep in a gold plated cup for a $1000, most of which was donated to charity. We saw several during the day.


RECIPE FOR MINT JULEP
• 2 cups sugar
• 2 cups water
• Sprigs of fresh mint
• Crushed ice
• Early Times Kentucky Whisky
• Silver Julep Cups
Make a simple syrup by boiling sugar and water together for five minutes. Cool and place in a covered container with six or eight sprigs of fresh mint, then refrigerate overnight. Make one julep at a time by filling a julep cup with crushed ice, adding one tablespoon mint syrup and two ounces of Early Times Kentucky Whisky. Stir rapidly with a spoon to frost the outside of the cup. Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint.

Finally, if the betting, fashions, history or fare don’t appeal to you, maybe the horses will. There are few locations on earth where one can see so many beautiful equines in one place. To be deemed a thoroughbred, a horse must be proven to be a direct descendant of three stallions, Darley Arabian, Godolphin Arabian or Byerly Turk who were imported to England from the Middle East in the late 17th and early 18th centuries and bred to 35 select English mares and formed the beginning of the General Stud Book of England.

Most Thoroughbreds stand over 16 hands high (that is big) and are usually brown, chestnut, black or gray. The Thoroughbred has a well chiseled head, long neck, high withers (that’s the highest point on the back of the neck), a deep chest, short back, good depth in the hindquarters, a lean body and long legs. Quite simply, they are incredibly huge and magnificent. They are beautiful. It was a thrill to be able to stand near the paddock, the place where the horses are saddled and mounted, before the races. Keep in mind that millions of dollars of horse are in front of you and these animals represent the best that horse racing has to offer.

Before each race the trumpeter sounds that famous signal, “Call to Post” and everyone’s eyes move to the starting gate for the race. If you happen to be inside the bowels of Churchill Downs, where the high rollers often are, there are screens everywhere to view the start and finish of the race.

The crowning glory of the weeks of celebration is the last race, The Run for the Roses. Before the gates open and the thundering of hooves is heard, the stands draw quiet for the playing and singing of My Old Kentucky Home. I am told that native Kentuckians, no matter where they happen to be, whether at Churchill Downs or scattered across the globe, stand in respect and with tears in their eyes, join in on the strains of the old Stephen Foster classic:

The sun shines bright in the old Kentucky home,
Tis summer, the people are gay;
The corn-top's ripe and the meadow's in the bloom
While the birds make music all the day.
The young folks roll on the little cabin floor
All merry, all happy and bright;
By'n by hard times comes a knocking at the door
Then my old Kentucky home, Good-night!
Weep no more my lady. Oh! Weep no more today!
We will sing one song for my old Kentucky home
For the old Kentucky home, far away.

The priest at Sunday Mass before the Derby told us that you will know if you are a true Kentuckian if you cry during the song. I have to admit, a small tear came to the eye.
And then they were off………………………….Do the Derby………You will love it.