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As one approaches the “Valley” as it referred to by most locals, a distinctive landmark, the huge, white arrow and word Phoenix spelled out in painted rocks on the side of a Superstition Mountain peak, greets both air and highway travelers.

A visitor to the greater Phoenix area quickly realizes this metropolis of 3.7 million is aptly named. The Phoenix is the bird of Greek mythology that was destroyed by fire only to rise from its ashes and live again. The Valley has been in a three year drought which has burned the landscape much like a piece of bread left in the toaster too long.

Imagine our surprise when we arrived in Apache Junction, 20 miles east of downtown Phoenix for our month long stay and were greeted with rain. Not just a day of rain, but over 8 days of rain, which accumulated to more than has fallen in the past 3 years. While somewhat depressing to us, the year around residents have been dancing in the streets which, by the way, were flooded day after day. The drought has been eased, the reservoirs are refilling, the ski areas of Flagstaff and Show Low, north of Phoenix, covered again with welcomed snow, and the desert is developing a green hue. The Phoenix has indeed risen.

The valley caters to the needs of RVer’s with countless parks with varying levels of amenities. We chose Meridian RV Resort in the shadow of the Superstition Mountains. With a pool, hot tub, billiards room, exercise facilities, reading and game room, club room and the all important laundry room for Sara, it is a delightful place to reside. The management is friendly and Charlie, our one year old Schnoodle has so many doggie pals that a play date at the fenced dog park is a dizzying adventure of nipping, barking, sniffing, chasing and rolling that thankfully leaves him breathless and exhausted. Meridian RV Resort’s location allows for easy access to shopping centers, food stores and a fabulous fresh vegetable market where for less than $20 your cart is overflowing with apples, lettuce, citrus, nuts, berries and other delightful treats. The resort has a prime rib dinner on Christmas day free of charge with a dish to pass and gift exchange. It was much fun without the need to drive anywhere.

Speaking of driving, the Phoenix traffic is horrendous at best during the rush hour and difficult even on the off peak hours. And Arizona has some of the strictest DUI laws in the nation. Even a first arrest for DUI is a Class I misdemeanor that can cost you an average $7,500 including 10 day mandatory 10 day jail time, $2000 fine, attorney fees, alcohol assessment and mandatory ignition interlock system at your cost of $960 for a year and a 5 year probation. Depending on the situation there is a minimum loss of license for 90 days, and longer if you have anyone under 15 in the car. The higher the alcohol level the greater the consequences.

And you are not going to talk your way out of it, particularly in Maricopa County were the infamous Sheriff Joe Arpiao, “toughest sheriff in the country”, and may have you working on the roadside picking up trash in pink prison fashions. It just ain’t worth it but in one night during the holidays over 120 DUI arrests were made. A cottage industry has developed where people hire a sober savior on a fold up motor scooter to pick them up, put the scooter in the trunk and drive them safely home. This is a very expensive service but much cheaper than a DUI arrest or a stolen car.

We decided to spend both Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve at the resort. We stayed off the road with a roast beef dinner and gift exchange for Christmas and the New Year's Eve party started at 10 PM out of deference to the mean age of the RVer's in the park and the knowledge most of us would have trouble making it to midnight.

One might wonder why, besides the obvious warm 70 degree weather and usually blue skies; anyone would choose the Valley for the Christmas season. Well, there are simply so many wonderful things to see and do.

It appears that the people make up for the lack of snow by installing a literal sea of colored lights. There are over 50 public displays and they have adopted a strict timetable for operation and often use of more efficient LCD lights out of respect for energy issues. During our stay in the Valley, we visited several of these colorful venues including the temple of the Church of the Latter Day Saints with over 600,000 lights. With the gleaming white temple and reflecting pools amidst the nativity scenes, it was awe inspiring. We were joined by Jack Moore, the principal of a school Don taught at over 30 years ago, who now lives in Gilbert. It was a beautiful night filled with reminiscing, good food and holiday lights in citrus trees heavy with lemons, oranges and grapefruit. Luminaries, paper bags with sand and a lighted candle, a local tradition, seem to defy self combustion in the wind and are everywhere. A holiday visit to the Phoenix area is not complete without a tour of these delightful kaleidoscopes of color.


There are many cultural events to attend including plays, musical productions and holiday parades. The Valley has several cultural centers and churches where this year one could attend the Nutcracker, Christmas Carol, Messiah at the Symphony and the New York Rockettes Christmas show. We opted for a less festive show but we were delighted with the traveling Titanic display at the Science Museum. It started with a 45 minute drama at the IMAX theatre of the sinking of the Titanic and its exploration. Talk about feeling like you were there. The icebergs loomed on the gigantic screen with the sounds of screams and crushing ice surrounding us on countless speakers. The only thing missing were blasts of frigid air, a feature harder to reproduce in the 70 degree weather outside. We then toured the artifact display retrieved from the wreck including parts of the ship, clothes, china, and countless personal items. They even had several locations on the ship reproduced to the last detail including the grand staircase and typical cabins for first class and steerage. We were so intrigued that we opted NOT to rent the headsets so that we could take our time reading the accompanying text rather than having our pace controlled electronically. If you get a chance to see this Titanic show as it travels though out the country, don’t miss it. You will not be sorry.

The outdoor attractions in the valley are truly magnificent. The reaction of a Midwesterner or a regular Florida snowbird to the desert landscape is often negative. Where is the green? But the beauty of a semi arid environment is subtle and slowly becomes appealingly dramatic as the ever changing shadows outline the mountains, cacti and desert vegetation like a time lapse movie in hues of blue, gold and mauve. Cacti appear on the desert floor in a myriad of shapes and sizes and the early morning sun makes their thorns shine in an eerie golden glow. And a full moon walk through the desert at night is almost a spiritual experience. We enjoyed this hike of our RV resort in Usery Park. As our eyes adjusted to the dim blue light, the giant Saguaro Cacti standing like solemn sentinels, pointed toward the stars. We could hear the flutter of owl wings and the mournful howl of a distant coyote. And that moon, it has never seemed larger.

No visit to the Valley would be complete without a trip to an authentic Mexican restaurant. Sara and I choose Tia Rosa, the most popular in Mesa for 2007. The restaurant was a photographer's delight with all its Christmas decorations and a good thing. After an hour and a half of waiting, we finally got our food. Plenty of time to take pictures. We skipped the $48 margaritas and the food was worth the wait. It is a cliche but you have never tasted what true Mexican food is supposed to taste like until you dine in the deep Southwest or in Mexico. Everything is fresh, light, perfectly seasoned and so delicious. Taco Bell, eat your heart out.........

During the day there is a 35 mile drive from Apache Junction to the Roosevelt Dam (Hwy 88 or the Apache Trail) through the historic town of Tortilla Flats of Steinbeck fame. Dubbed the Grand Canyon of the far Southwest, the Apache Trail is a mind boggling adventure of dizzying heights, towering cliffs displaying endless geologic time, narrow twisting curves, breath taking drops with an occasional rusting car smashed on the rocks below to remind the driver to keep his eyes on the road. The sparkling waters of the Salt River and two lakes provide a sharp contrast to the desert scene. This trip climaxes at the massive Roosevelt Dam and the Tonto National Monument, site of cliff dwellings of the Salado Indian culture from 1150 to 1450 AD. The drive in the Upper Sonoran ecosystem, known primarily for its characteristic Saguaro Cactus is awesome. Other common plants include: cholla, prickly pear, hedgehog and barrel cactus (blooming April through June); yucca, sotol, and agave; creosote bush and ocotillo; palo verde and mesquite trees; an amazing variety of colorful wild flowers (February through March); and a lush riparian area which supports large Arizona black walnut, sycamore, and hackberry trees.

Animals native to Tonto National Monument include: whitetail and mule deer; mountain lion and bobcat; javelina, porcupine, coyote, and ringtail; jackrabbit and desert cottontail; several squirrel, chipmunk, and bat species; all four species of North American skunk; three rattlesnake species; Arizona coral snake; over a dozen other snake species; Gila monster and over a dozen other lizard species; four toad and frog species; and over 100 bird species. It is trip that can be done over and over again and of which we never tire. Each time it is different.

For a bird watcher like Sara, the environment so different from the greens and blues of New Found Land brings an opportunity for new discoveries that prompted the purchase of Sibley’s Field Guide to Birds of Western North American and the accompanying Sibley Guide to Hummingbirds. Even familiar forms like the Red Tailed Hawk now are disguised with a darker desert form. And talk about hummingbirds. These hovering jewels call the Southwest their homeland with over 17 species, the most in all of North America. Keep in mind that only the ruby throated is normally seen east of the Rockies.

Imagine the howls of joy and delight as Sara sighted the Anna’s humming bird for the first time. The throat color of the male burns the eye with a red rose iridescence that will never be forgotten. Beating its wings at 78 times per second, humming birds can fly at up to 45 mph and take an incredible 250 breaths per minute. They normally weigh less than a first class letter and eat up to half their weight in sugar each day.

Any trip to the “Valley” would not be complete without a quick visit to the Sedona-Prescott area north of Phoenix. You are almost certain to see the red rocks covered in snow. There is the old gold mining town of Jerome and the White Mountains to the east are covered in pines with fantastic views. But often it is the serendipity that delights the visitor the most. Here is an example.

Sara and I traveled to the city of Florence, south east of Phoenix and location of an Arizona State Prison store which was an excellent place to shop for Christmas presents. The “My Son Made the 9u23 Honor Pod at Florence State Prison” bumper stickers in huge demand as were the many examples of beautifully made jewelry and wood workings. While at the store we were asked if we had visited the famous St Anthony Greek Orthodox Monastery just south of town. On a lark we drove to the site. Wow, what a secret delight. Situated in the middle of the parched desert it was an oasis of incredible beauty.
http://www.stanthonysmonastery.org/VisitorInfo.htm

Founded in the summer of 1995 by six monks, the monastery has grown to include several chapels, gardens, pathways, Spanish fountains, a vineyard, orange and olive groves. Over 45 brothers reside at this oasis and care for the landmark under the constant direction of the Abbott.

All visitors must be appropriately and modestly dressed with men covering both arms and legs and women must even cover slacks with a long skirt, wear a sleeved blouse and a scarf. Sara giggled at her garb provided at the visitors center and looked like a meek little nun which she is not. We toured over an hour and were delighted with the visit.

That is the beauty of this type of travel. Just when you think you have seen it all, you are surprised with a new and exciting adventure. As the old saying goes, “Tourists see what they came to see; Travelers see what they see.”

See the Valley of the Sun. And a visit during the holiday season will be a special delight.