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Peter Ericsson | profile | all galleries >> Tripreports! >> West Papua 2-14th of August, 2025. tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

West Papua 2-14th of August, 2025.

West Papua 2nd to 15th of August, 2025.

Introduction

I have been to West Papua 3 times in the past leading groups of birders but it always was made simple with the help of a tour agent and thus I could concentrate on the birding and making sure things were happening as planned.

I have had a desire to revisit on my own, go at my own pace, and set my own goals.

I wanted to see if I could pull it off and in the end it was easier then I thought.
My objectives were to see how the locals live at grassroot level. Observe the socio/economical dynamics in a rapidly changing country.

I knew I would not get many new birds as my list for birds is comprehensive but I also didn’t think I had a very good grasp on the common birds as tours to WP are extremely target focused on Birds of Paradise, kingfishers and a few more exclusive birds.

So I simply enjoyed a slower pace, walked around the village area on my own and listened to the birds. Forest dwelling birds are very hard to get close to. Birds flying overhead are commonly seen in the morning and late afternoon but seldom close enough for good pictures.

The easiest and best way to get good pictures of the Bops is to visit well established hides.

Part 1

I flew from Bangkok over Jakarta to Sorong. A 6 hour layover in Jakarta. First flight took about 3 to 3.5 hours and the second one a little more. I paid 800 US$ for the return ticket.

There are cheaper ways to get there but more stopovers involved.

I had checked in my luggage to be picked up at Sorong. I wasn’t sure if that was so smart and my fears crystalized. No luggage for me upon arrival which led to 3 full days of no change of clothes etc.

I was told the bag would arrive the day after and it did but the pick up from the airport and the consequence of shipping it to me took 2 days. It of course affected me as I had brought some gifts to the kids in the village along with my own belongings.

Yoram, from the village of Klabili village some 70km East of Sorong city, greeted me at the airport. He had arranged for a 4WD (100US$) as the road is beat up in parts. The car only took me there and had to be arranged again for my return to Sorong. While at Klabili there was no
transportation.

We proceeded to buy groceries for my stay and also paid a visit to the local bottle store where they sold cold ale as in Guinness Stout! My favorite beer! Beer is not commonly sold but at both Waigeo and Sorong possible with a little probing. Some of the higher end restaurants and hotels also have on offer but at a steeper price.

The drive took about 3 hours along green covered tree roadsides. Most of WP is hilly with rugged mountains and covered in forest. But of course near human settlements you can tell many trees have been used for housing. This has created a vine covered secondary growth.

Along the way we passed the eco based village of Malagufuk. It has become world renowned and is on almost every birdtour company’s program. It requires a hike of 3 km to get to the village from the road and I opted to not visit.

Klabili village is a further 17 km away. We drove right to Yoram’s house in the village next to the road. The house was made from bricks/cement and fully functional though basic.

I was given a room with a mosquito net that I never used. There was a bathroom with a western toilet and a basin with water for showers. It was always kept clean.

Main difference from this visit was that Yoram let the generator run all night and kept his WiFi on. My SIM card did not work in the village. Lesson learned to not use anything but Telkom services. Budget operators don’t have the network.

The next 4 nights I strolled around in the area of the village. There was an opening in the forest nearby where nectar feeding butterflies were found. The thick forest began less then 100m from our house and a totally different environment. I walked inside of here sometimes alone, other times with Yoram, a native villager and even some young boys happily showing me things.

Most of them freely walked anywhere barefooted. Amazing!

At Yoram’s house there was a water filled streambed/ditch and it held 8 different odonatan, much to my pleasure. I instantly got 5 lifers! Otherwise, the area wasn’t the best for odonatans but seriously good for butterflies. My biggest hope for this trip was to photograph butterflies and odonatans.

Yoram engages several villagers to run his operation. Everyone shares the cake. Thus the meals were deliciously cooked with local cuisine. Usually an assortment of 3-4 dishes.

Indonesia produces excellent coffee and it was available at will.

Most men smoke. And I noticed how Yoram often would hand out cigarettes to people he came across.

It is mandatory in most areas to have someone walking with you. This can be annoying, especially when they neither speak English and have little bird knowledge. But it is part of the system to create income for everyone.

There was a surprising amount of vehicles driving through the village on the now dirt covered road. The road actually runs all the way to Manokwari.

Indonesians have a habit of honking their horns. This is done out of respect and appreciation and not as a nuisance or displeasure but a friendly greeting. Along with the honking follows a loud “Mister!”

As mentioned earlier, it was a bit agonizing not to have my belongings at hand but once the bag arrived I was able to give away some children’s clothing and toys I had brought along.

And, my bottle of wine was still well preserved!

Some birding highlights: I visited two different locations both not more then 5 minutes walk away for Eastern Hooded Pitta (lifer) and Papuan Pitta (photo lifer). My Pitta #29!
Worms were used and simply dug out of the ground, severed and served on a log! Who can resist?
Black Lories were commonly flying overhead. My 2nd lifers!
Papuan Hornbills, Sulphur-crested Cockatoos, Red-cheeked Parrot, Helmeted Friarbird, Willie Wagtail, Pion’s Imperial Pigeons, Coconut Lorikeets, Uniform and Glossy Swiftlets were common birds seen.
Yoram had spots for Leser Bird of Paradise and King of Paradise but I had already seen and photographed those at Nimbokrang a few years back so didn’t push for the early rise and walk on slippery trails in the dark.

On my last day we visited Sorong Mangroves before I was dropped off at M-hotel.

The mangroves have some interesting birds on its list but oh so difficult to get on to.
I did get my 3rd lifer, Brown-backed Honeyeater, a common bird in the mangroves.

It had been a life changing experience to live in a Papuan family home. It gave me a lot more insight into the intricacies of a multi racial society undergoing change. It also showed me the strong emphasis on a spirit of family which did not just focus on immediate family and neighbors but also on the people encountered in daily living. People were very friendly to each other it seemed. The word ‘sorry’ is never far from their lips though at times one feel it is a bit too easily used instead of taking responsibility for mistakes.

Part 2.

I had booked 2 nights at M-hotel. Agoda offered a 50% discount which made it quite cheap.
Room was modern, AC, own shower and King sized bed. It came with a sumptuous breakfast buffet which I fully made use of!

I enjoyed walking in Sorong. Mostly shophouses used for all kind of businesses. Loads of cars and motorcycles busying about.

I downloaded an app called Maxim. It was excellent for getting a motor bike or private taxi at very cheap prices. I never had to wait more then a couple of minutes.

In Sorong I tried some Padang food. This is from Sumatra and quite tasty.

I also managed to find a bottle store to stock up for my upcoming days to Waiego. Little did I know that there is a small bottle shop in town there as well, howbeit 20% higher prices.

On my full day in Sorong I revisited the Mangrove forest. Equally quiet this time. I really wanted to see Little Kingfisher but only heard it. The forest has an extensive network of boardwalks but in general very quiet.

The rest of the day I took the opportunity to chill in my cool room, walk some streets and enjoy some Indonesian food.

Next morning off to the ferry. Two price levels. I opted for the VIP which was quiet, AC and spacious seating. On the way back from Waigeo I opted for the cheaper choice and that was almost as good.

Part 3.

A non-adventurous 2 hour journey to Waigeo, Raja Ampat.

You need to buy tickets one hour before departure. No other way.

Once at Senpokrang you need to register your arrival. If you are a diver and almost everyone visiting is, you pay a fee of 700.000 IR (46 US$) but if you inform them that you are birdwatching and no diving the charge is 100.000. Good deal!

The owner of the guesthouse I had booked, Rara Guest House, picked me up. The guest house was 1 km away. Could have walked.

The place had 6 rooms with AC. Simple but functional. WiFi working at all times.

First day I simply walked around and got my daily steps. I found a place that I revisited many times called Café Dave.... It looked more upbeat and modern but the food was certainly not anything like processed fastfood. I loved it!

With my motor (short for motorbike) I drove around the township and further West to the end of the road. This was a good way for me to see more of the area and understand the infrastructure along with how to find birds and other wildlife. The owner of the resort was well connected and shared some tidbits.

I didn’t expect any lifers on the Island and also didn’t get any. BUT I found a small ditch in the outskirts of town that had dragonflies. Odonata (dragon and damselflies combined) are not plenteous on the island but this little spot revealed about 10 species and even 2 undescribed taxon and another first for Papua (as per iNaturalist). I had a lot of fun doing this and so did the local kids seeing this old ‘bule’ (white man) with his camera and rubber boots walking in the ditch! I had learned to say ‘chapoong’ out loud which means dragonflies. And then the curious locals would instantly be at rest and even point things out for me. Same with ‘kopu kopu’ or butterflies……Birds is called ‘buroong’….these 3 words are very useful as are a few basic greeting terms.

I have photographed Wilson’s Bird of Paradise 3 times already but the owner of the guest house told me of a new spot not far away. It only involved 15 minutes walk on flat grounds after a simple 10 minute motorbike ride. I was met by the owner of the hide before dawn and we arrived early at the hide. Had to wait 1.5 hours before the male bird would appear. It stayed for 5 minutes cleaning up the display area. No display as it isn’t breeding season yet.

Still one of the most iconic birds in the world! I paid 28US$ for the visit!

The folks at the local bottle shop got to know me and I enjoyed sitting down with a cold Guiness after hours in the field. I also really enjoyed not being pressured to find all the birds on the list as can be the case while taking out keen birders.

This slower pace allowed for more enjoyment for the little things along the way. The smile from a kid, the ‘mister’ from a youth on a bike, the Papuan farmer waving his hands etc etc.

I found 1 shirt in my bag meant to be given away. While driving around I kept my eyes open for some kid ‘in need’. At a humble abode a women was carrying a toddler with a young boy next to her. I stopped, dug out the shirt and asked her to come over. As I did, a 3rd child came running. It was a totally naked boy and the shirt fitted him perfectly! All smiles!

I heartily recommend to bring little gifts for locals as you visit Papua. It might only be a gesture but people see it as someone cares!

5 nights at the guest house was probably 1 night too many h but it rained a lot which did put a hold on things.

The ferry back was full of westerners telling tales of their diving. Most people disperse into the surrounding smaller islands or resorts and you barely see a single foreigner in town.

Some of the commonest birds on Waiego: Helmeted Friarbird, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Willie Wagrail, Eclectus Parrot, Coconut Lorikeet, Sacred Kingfisher, White-breasted Wood-Swallow,
Rainbow Bee-eater and Rufous-bellied Kookaburra.

Part 4

I had booked another 2 nights at Sorong. This time at Darefan hotel next to the airport. It had seen its best days for sure and was a bit run down. Still it did the job and gave me access to a more central part of town.

Again I visited the Mangrove reserve. Still no real progress but I did end up with 2 very rare butterflies for Papua and both new for me!

Oh, I found a fantastic restaurant! I sampled some of the best seafood I have had. Mamberamo (live) Seafood is a must to be honest!

My flight to Jakarta went all well. I snuck away from the airport a bit as there is some greenery in front of the airport. Here I found a few odonatan and a handful of birds. Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker being the best.

A long wait at the airport. The airport is simply top notch level. Modern in every way. Full of eateries and shops.

I got home all safe and sound and this time the bag was on the conveyer belt!

It had been a great holiday!

PS. The air ticket was about 800 and the remainder just under 1200.
Anyone interested in arranging a tour can message me.
Email: pkknjj@yahoo.com
Peter.ericsson@gmail.com

More reports and pictures at: www.pbase.com/peterericsson
And yet more at: https://www.inaturalist.org/people/3677203


Wilson's Bird of Paradise
Wilson's Bird of Paradise
Wilson's Bird of Paradise
Wilson's Bird of Paradise
Eastern Hooded Pitta
Eastern Hooded Pitta
Papuan Pitta
Papuan Pitta
Rainbow Bee-eater
Rainbow Bee-eater
Beach Kingfisher
Beach Kingfisher
Sacred Kingfisher
Sacred Kingfisher
Rufous-bellied Kookaburra
Rufous-bellied Kookaburra
Golden Monarch
Golden Monarch
Frilled Monarch
Frilled Monarch
Variable Goshawk
Variable Goshawk
Brown-backed Honeyeater
Brown-backed Honeyeater
Black-spotted Flash (Hypolycaena phorbas)
Black-spotted Flash (Hypolycaena phorbas)
Tailed Green-banded Line Blue (Nacaduba cyanea)
Tailed Green-banded Line Blue (Nacaduba cyanea)
Danis hermogenes
Danis hermogenes
Palmfly (Elymnias agondas)
Palmfly (Elymnias agondas)
Taenaris bioculatus
Taenaris bioculatus
Jezebel Nymph (Mynes geoffroyi)
Jezebel Nymph (Mynes geoffroyi)
Dicallaneura decorata
Dicallaneura decorata
Taenaris dioptrica
Taenaris dioptrica
Ambrax Swallowtail (Papilio ambrax)
Ambrax Swallowtail (Papilio ambrax)
Lyriothemis meyeri
Lyriothemis meyeri
Rhinocypha tincta sagitta
Rhinocypha tincta sagitta
Rainforest Elf (Tetrathemis irregularis)
Rainforest Elf (Tetrathemis irregularis)
Painted Grasshawk (Neurothemis stigmatizans)
Painted Grasshawk (Neurothemis stigmatizans)
Jewel Flutterer (Rhyothemis resplendens)
Jewel Flutterer (Rhyothemis resplendens)
Agrionoptera similis.jpg
Agrionoptera similis.jpg
Road to Klabili village
Road to Klabili village
Road by the village
Road by the village
Welcome!
Welcome!
My home to be during the 5 day stay..
My home to be during the 5 day stay..
Greenery
Greenery
A stream inside the forest about 200m from the house.
A stream inside the forest about 200m from the house.
Yoram
Yoram
Gifts!
Gifts!
Papuan man
Papuan man
Me and the boys
Me and the boys
Village kids
Village kids
Cute kid
Cute kid
Misty morning
Misty morning
Fish dish
Fish dish
Home cooked food
Home cooked food
3 in 1
3 in 1
Local food
Local food
Ales!
Ales!
Sorong Mangroves
Sorong Mangroves
Boardwalk
Boardwalk
Rara Guest House
Rara Guest House
Biking
Biking
good people at the homestay
good people at the homestay
Forest
Forest
Odonatan
Odonatan
Mee Goring
Mee Goring
Fish soup
Fish soup
Forest
Forest
Shirt
Shirt
Delicious is the word!
Delicious is the word!
Sea food
Sea food
Veggies
Veggies
Groceries
Groceries