Thailand 8th-23rd of March, 2023

Peter Ericsson
Alain Pataud
Jean-Michel Thibault


Day 1. Road to Khao Yai

I picked up two tired Frenchman from Suwannaphum Airport in the early morning. Our destination for the day was Khao Yai National Park but we decided to visit the experimental rice beds at Pathum Thani for starters.

It turned out to be a good choice with 56 species seen well and both bins, cameras and spotting scope coming to good use. There were rather large groups of waders around, migration is starting up, and especially Spotted Redshanks, Marsh Sandpiper and Temminck’s Stint. But my guests were most happy for the 2 Oriental Pratincoles seen at close range. Asian Golden Weaver also got a lot of attention as this range restricted bird was a lifer for both of them. Other birds in the supporting cast: Grey-headed Lapwings, Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Zitting Cisticolas, Black-winged Kite, Paddyfield Pipits etc

As we approached Bahk Chong we decided to visit Lamtakong Dam. Another good decision and though it was hot in the midday sun we got on to many birds.
Particularly finding Horsfield’s Bushlark, Oriental Skylark, Indo-chinese Bushlark, Red-throated and Paddyfield Pipits in one dry muddy area was invigorating. Horsfield’s I seldom come across and not like this on the ground but always high in the sky or far away through a scope.

A group of Glossy Ibises was a great sight for me. These birds seem to thrive in suitable areas in Central Thailand. Many other common birds were about such as Common Iora, Baya and Golden Weavers, Oriental Reed Warbler and Dusky Warbler, Common and White-throated Kingfisher, Openbill Storks, Black Drongo and an Osprey at close range.

After we settled in our hotel, Napa resort, we went out for a bit more birding before supper.
The area where I previously used to stay, Juladit turned Palio, is now closed down and overgrown. Failed business due to lockdown I presume. But in there was a Great Hornbill flying around between the stately trees. Flocks of Red-breasted Parakeets livened things up and Lineated Barbets made themselves known.

Dinner at an authentic Isan restaurant with barbecued chicken, papaya salad and vegetable dish.

Good start of the tour!


Day 2. Khao Yai National Park

Early morning entry to Khao Yai National Park. First stop at the lookout early on. It was very birdy with lots of small birds around but the initial highlight was 4 Great Hornbills flying by at close range. A Blue and White Flycatcher was a treat as they now are starting to migrate through but otherwise I found it very interesting to observe several Claudia’s Leaf Warblers and listening to both their calls and songs. They are getting ready to move on.

Great and Common Iora, Golden-fronted and Blue-winged Leafbirds, Grey-eyed, Black-crested, Stripe-throated and Puff-throated Bulbuls. A pair of Wreathed Hornbills low over the canopy. And several others.

As we progressed the sounds of nature enticed us to several stops. Calling Gibbons had us pull over and a pair of White-handed Gibbons with their baby gave us the greatest of views.
But what really called my attention was the sounds of Long-tailed Broadbills. Well, it wasn’t until we noted that they were nest building using phone wires besides the road that we really got on to them.

Next to them was a fruiting tree full of Barbets, Bulbuls and Fairy Bluebirds.

We stopped here and there and after lunch we decided to visit the highest point of Khao Yai.
As it was 2 pm I did not expect much to show but ‘lo and behold’ a group of 5 Silver-backed Pheasents crossed the road in front of us! Ha! You just never know!

Up at the top we relaxed a bit but the much longed for (by the French) Radde’s Warbler gave superb views. And a Black Eagle flew in the foggy airs surrounding us.

A slow drive down gave us screams from Brown Hornbills but no sightings.

At the lake further down a squadron of Brown-backed Needle-tails were joined with a Silver-backed Needletail as they swooped down to drink like little jet planes.

Other mammals observed were Barking Deer, Sambar Deer, Pig-tailed Macaques, Giant and Variable Squirrel.

Day ended in same fashion as day 1 with a sumptuous meal.


Day 3. Khao Yai morning, Pak Tale late afternoon

Another morning at Khao Yai. Today with a different agenda. Instead of general birding we decided to try to nail down some harder to find birds. We had been tipped off of a fruiting tree near the elephant crossing sign. Well, it turned out to be an amazing 45 minutes.
The tree was full of Pig-tailed Macaques, White-handed Gibbons, Mountain Imperial Pigeons, Thick-billed Pigeons, Barbets and Bulbuls feeding on the ripe fruit. One by one the various Hornbill species came in. First Wreathed, then Brown but unfortunately only flying by, Great Hornbill followed suite and then Asian Pied. It was just awesome to be part of this spectacal with the backdrop of calling Blue Pittas, singing Claudia’s Leaf Warblers and Green-legged Partridges doing their best to join the party.

So, with sights of Brown Hornbill in the bag we moved on towards the road up to Khao Kaew.

Our hope was to get on to Siamese Firebacks and so we did. 2 males and one female feeding on some fallen fruit by the road side. Unfortunately there are too many vehicles in the area with people who have no interest in nature but rather making a living.

We proceeded to the top where we added another encounter with a male Silver Pheasant.

On the way out of the park we passed by Haew Narok which is a good place for Van Hassel’s Sunbird. It took a good half hour but eventually we got to lay eyes on this beauty!

Then followed a long drive to Pak Taley where we sampled a number of waders before retreating to our hotel and supper.


Day 4. Pak Tale and Lampakbia

Mid March many of the waders are either starting to or already have assumed breeding plumage. This makes it so interesting to view. The downside is that mid March is very hot and the salt farming has intensified making it harder for the birds to settle in feeding areas.

We spend the morning enjoying lots of waders including Nordmann’s Greenshanks, Asian Dowitchers, Great and Red Knots, Broad-billed sandpipers, etc BUT no Spoonie! Grrr!

After lunch a visit to the sandspit and great interaction with Malaysian and White-faced Plovers. Then back to look for Spoonie again but no luck. Funny how this one little bird overrides everything else inspite of terrific light and wonderful flocks of birds.


Day 5. Pak Tale and Baan Maka Nature resort

Ecclesiastics 7:8 states that Better is the end of a thing than the beginning thereof! This surely held true this time as far as finding Spoon-billed Sandpiper. Labouring hard one day without success. Next morning (today) back to the same pattern until I finally stopped trying too hard, went back to the car, and obligingly scanned some random pond nearby. I came across some small calidrises resting on the mud/water pools....one individual caught my eyes....'hmm such a whitish forehead, my God, I bet it is the elusive one'......I waited a couple of minutes and then the incredible bill showed for a moment....truly elated I texted my Frenchies desperatly hoping they would pick up the phone....

Well, they didn't, but leisurely strolled back towards the car. Darn ya! I emphatically waved my arms to get their attention and finally could see some movements resembling hurry! Ha!
Well, it all worked out superbly as the bird kept staying in sleeping position with bill tucked in and we were able to spend the next hour seeing how it progressed till finally the bird was walking about not only preening but also dabbling in the waters.
What a glorious hour it had been!

The rest of the day was spent around Ban Maka Nature resort where we picked up 50 some species ending the day watching the sunset over the hills while enjoying a cold beer at the provincial bar set up in the vegetable garden.


Day 6. Hides

I had booked two different hides for the day in order to get on to some target birds such as Blue Pitta, Ferruginous Partridge and Gray Peacock Pheasant.

Our first hide delivered wonderfully inspite of lowering skies and rumblings followed by drizzles. The Blue Pitta came in 3 times and gave lasting views.

Our second hide did not deliver the target birds. We were told the birds would show in the afternoon but due to change in weather the Peacock-Pheasant actually attended the hide for 4 hours in the morning. Ha ha ha…you just never know.

Well, we did get Khalij Pheasants, Green-legged and Bar-backed Partridges and that was enough to call it a success!


Day 7! Kaengkrachan National Park

Our first and only day inside of Kaengkrachan park. Well, it started out with a bit of a mishap as one of the tires to my car was flat. The Frenchmen were very able bodied and happy to put on the spare and we only got started 15 minutes later then scheduled.

As usual I stopped at km 9 where there is an open area great for viewing. 36 species were on the list after an hour at the spot. Sultan’s Tit, Greater and Common Flameback, Thick-billed Warbler, Pied Hornbill, Blue-eared and Green-eared Barbets were some of the birds seen.

We then moved on to the streams. Little by little things started showing but we started out with a bang, a White’s Thrush were showing next to a stream only to be followed by an Orange-breasted Trogon which normally would take priority over a thrush but in this case had to play second fiddle.

Walking along the road gave us a few new species though not all that outstanding: Olive (Baker’s) Bulbul, Ochraceous Bulbul, Rufous-fronted Babbler and a Brown-rumped Minivet.
But then we were alerted to some Raffle’s Malkohas, a bird not often seen in the park. Great stuff! A Buff-rumped Woodpecker was exciting as was White-browed Piculet, Black-and-Yellow Broadbill and eventually Silver-breasted Broadbills as well.

When birds were not showing we focused on the many butterfly species about. The Frenchmen were impressed with the numbers of butterflies but quite honestly, come back in a month and you can really start talking about numbers.

Another highlight was Great Slaty-Woodpeckers though the views could have been better.
The icing on the cake was a Banded Blue Kingfisher that perched for us long enough for some snaps. This is a bird that normally is not in the park but arrives as it prepares to breed in between the streams.

All in all a pretty good day with loads of impressions.


Day 8. Drive to Sri Pangnga Park.

A transition day. We birded around the resort trying to catch up with some more elusive species but not much luck. Still, a nice exercise in basic birding. Then off for an 8 hour drive.
We actually managed to pack in one lifer along the way as I had to use the lavatory at a gas station and then noticed a Brown-throated Sunbird!

In the end we arrived at our booked lodging near Sri Pangnga National Park and dined at a restaurant with sumptuous food across the road.


Day 9. Sri Pangnga National Park

Our target for this day was Malayan Banded Pitta, Chestnut-naped Forktail and Bushy-crested Hornbills. Well, it was not nearly as easy as in times past to get on to the Pitta but eventually we got on to a pair though not all that good for photography. The Forktails gave decent views but not very close and eventually the Hornbills decided to leave their abode on the high hills to show in flight.

Besides that we primarily heard a lot of things but did see some. The lowland rainforest is notoriously difficult and if you are used to seeing birds well (as in Central and Northern Thailand) you will be in for a surprise. Don’t come to the South unless you realize what you are up against!


Day 10. Sri Pangnga National Park

A hide for Great Argus was booked and we met a local ranger at 5 am to bring us there.
A long wait until we finally realized the bird was not going to show this morning.
It was interesting to listen to the morning chorus but not seeing the bird was unexpected.
(update, the bird has not showed for 3 days as of now)

On the way out we had some wonderful views of Swifts flying low over a body of water:
Pacific Swift, Silver-rumped Needletail, Gray-rumped Treeswifts, Plume-toed Swift and Germein’s Swiftlet.

We then went back to Sri Pangnga National Park where we actually had some pretty solid birding. The weather was not as hot as the day before and there was more activity.
Our last bird of the afternoon was a Rufous-collared Kingfisher that after a long search gave prolonged views as it perched 30m up a hill.


Day 11. Pangnga Mangroves

An early drive to the mangroves of Pangnga. Different habitat, different set of birds!
Almost instantly we found ourselves engaged with a calling Mangrove Pitta at close range.
It stubbornly did not come out fully but we did manage to get pictures anyhow.

Ruddy Kingfisher had been reported in good numbers from the day before but during our visit here we failed to see one. However a Brown-winged Kingfisher, a local mangrove specialist showed extremely well in the late afternoon.

The last hour of the day we visited a city park. There was a huge group of Stub-tailed Macaques around. (I am not sure if they are there naturally or have been introduced?)

Night at a hotel near the mangroves.


Day 12. Mangroves of Pangnga and drive to Krung Ching, Nakon Srithammarat.

Back to the mangroves and again we got some good ones. A pair of Black-red Broadbills, a Chestnut-bellied Malkoha and cracking views of Streak-breasted Woodpeckers.

We moved on to some mangroves a bit further of town. It was hot and quiet but soon we got on to an obliging Mangrove Whistler, our target bird!

Then followed a long drive to the Eastern side of the Peninsular where we eventually arrived at Krung Ching Homestay. The Homestay is of high standard and more of a quaint resort then anything.


Day 13. Krung Ching and hide

Krung Ching access road all morning. Lots of sounds and not many seen birds. Black-bellied Malkoha probably was the best along with a Red-bearded Bee-eater.

A bunch of new bulbuls etc plus a Red-billed Malkoha. As usual slow going, but consistent.

The afternoon was spent in a hide outside the park. 4-5 hours in a hide is not my preference but to see birds at close range makes it compelling.

Mostly bulbuls and flycatchers which included Blyth’s Paradise Flycatcher both male and female but the star of the show was a pair Green Broadbills that came rather abruptly.

For myself, I was thrilled to see a Rufous-chested Flycatcher coming in to feed and bathe. This ficedula is primarily fond at the border to Malaysia and further South. I had never seen it in Thailand before, only heard it. So very pleasing and a big surprise.

Back to the nice resort and another meal of roosted chicken and papaya salad. Ha ha ha….no real restaurant in the area


Day 14. Krung Ching

We began around HQ where we were excited to get on to Scaly-breasted Bulbul, probably the best looking bulbul in the country. Also a Yellow-rumped Flycatcher, Green Iora and Dark-throathed Orioles were new for the trip. Plus a range of more smaller passerines.

Then we embarked on a few hours walk along the trail from HQ towards the waterfall. This trail is simply stunning but require a lot of patience. As we walked we felt the birds were all asleep but as we left we had seen Chestnut-winged Babblers, Green Broadbills, Rufous Piculet and a pair of Scarlet-rumped Trogons real well. Man, who needs quantity when there is quality around?


Day 15. Transfer to Petchaburi

After considering our options we decided to leave early for our very long drive towards Bangkok. We left at 7 am and arrived at Petchaburi in time for dinner. In between we managed a stop at Wanakorn Beach National Park where we got some cracking views of Spotted Owlets and even heard a day calling Brown Hawk Owl, how strange!


Day 16. Wetlands of Petchaburi, Bangkok sites

Morning spent in search of Palla’s Grasshopper Warbler and Lanceolated Warbler. We did hear the first and I caught glimpses of the 2nd! A few lifers were added!

Then a drive to Bangkok and a visit to a couple of my local patches. First one was Suwintawong 47. We were hoping for Rufous-winged Buzzard but that was not to be. Instead a good set of midday birds.

Late afternoon at Lat Krabang, my real home patch, where we had over 60 species. We had thrilling interaction with Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler but it just refused to come out. A few new ones such as Grey-headed Lapwings, Streaked Weavers, Pheasant-tailed Jacanas and Black-browed Reed Warblers.

In the end I dropped off the Frenchmen where I had picked them up 16 days earlier.
I do believe it had been a very well invested time and money for the both of them with a slew of lifers and memorable moments. And only at half the price of a conventional bird tour company where you are obliged to toe the line in the company of 6-10 other birders.
A non brainer really as you not only get personal time with the guide but also a personalized schedule.

Birdlist

https://ebird.org/tripreport/112466