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Peter Ericsson | profile | all galleries >> Tripreports! >> Sulawesi/Halmahera 2014 tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

Sulawesi/Halmahera 2014

Sulawesi and Halmahera, Indonesia 11-28th September 2014
Participants: Graham Ekins, Larry and Andreas Gardella
Tourleader: Peter Ericsson
Local agent and guide: Theo Henoch
Additional local guides: Samuel, Idris and Danny

The long awaited customized trip to Wallacea region of Sulawesi and Halmahera finally arrived.
I flew to Singapore where I met up with a couple of local bird photographers that treated me to a sumptuous Chinese meal of fish head curry and Hainan chicken. Delicious stuff!

A night at my inlaws and then off to Changi airport in the early morning. Free WiFi at the world’s best airport and then a 3.5 hour flight with Silk Air to Manado on the Northeastern tip of Sulawesi.
I was greeted warmly by Theo, my friend from Sulawesi We had some coffee while waiting for Graham Ekins , a dedicated global birder from England. Over the terminal building both Sulawesi (a split from Moluccan) and Uniform Swiftlets were hawking insects. In the bushes were a few Scaly-breasted Munias, Eurasian Treesparrows and some Sooty-headed Bulbuls. Pacific Swallows were perched on a light post but nothing else around.

Graham arrived with tales to tell from his pre trip birding adventure on Bali and Java. 51 lifers for him!

Spent the evening chilling out and got my hot shower and air-conditioned room with views of the sea.
11th. Early rise and a short walk to the seaside. Using the scope we got to watch a flock of 20 some Common Terns feeding on a school of fish. The odd Gull-billed Tern and a single Little Tern were also over the waters. The only shorebird seen was a Common Sandpiper amongst the rocks.

I heard the sweet song of the Golden-bellied Gerygone and the bird was kind enough to fly out to the only bush near to us and Graham grabbed some images.

The Swiftlets were showing well and some Munias were in the bushes behind us.
A remarkable thing occurred. A Sooty-headed Bulbul flew right out over the waters. It touched the water with its belly a few times and then suddenly stopped in the water where it floated for a few minutes before flying away. I can only speculate to this behavior. Perhaps it was trying to get rid of some bugs using the salt water?

Back at the hotel we had good views of Olive-backed Sunbird and Chestnut Munia with its black belly.
A hearty breakfast and some time in the room before Larry and Mrs Gardella from the US arrived having been picked up by Theo at the airport.

We set off towards Gunung Mahawu not too far from Mando (2 hours). Nice to be able to get some birding in the afternoon and not having to spend hours traveling right after a long international flight.

Along the way we stopped to view a Black Eagle soaring over the hills.

We settled in a nice resort on a hill side where air-con is not needed but warm water is provided as well as WiFi. A sumptuous lunch and some birding around the resort grounds gave us 3 species of Sunbirds: Olive-backed, Brown-throated and a stunning male Eastern Crimson.

Our 1st endemic passerine was to be the Yellow-sided Flowerpecker. A bird that would keep us company throughout Sulawesi.

The afternoon was met with heavy downpours but it cleared up as we got up on Gunung Mahawu. We soon started to get more acquainted with some of the more common birds: Mountain Tailorbird, Grey-sided and Yellow-sided Flowerpecker plus the tricky Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker.

Scarlet Mysomela is a tiny bird with a bright red head and something everyone enjoyed. Several were seen.

Slender-billed Cuckoo Doves were common, a Great Sulawesi Hanging Parrot showed well. A juvenile Rufous-bellied Eagle came crashing through the woods being mobbed by some Slender-billed Crows.

Sulawesi Babbler also gave reasonable views as did Island Verditer Flycatcher. The Barred Rail came in full view on the roadside and a Black Eagle soared on high.

12th. Back up the mountain to look for Scaly Kingfisher but to no avail. I think this bird must have been taped out as it hasn’t been showing to any groups of late. Either way, it was a lovely early morning and some more good birds started to show. A group of 4 Yellow-billed Malkhoas took the senses with storm. 3 Superb Fruit Doves showed well. What a bird!

Sulawesi Blue Flycatchers were lured out in full view. Many Mountain and Black-fronted White-eyes were busy about. Hair-crested Drongos with their striking white eye showed well (definitely a future split). Citrine Flycatcher gave view as did Yellow-vented Whistler! An adult Rufous-bellied Eagle in the air was good. We tried for Speckled Boobook but no response. Sulawesi Scops Owl did call but didn’t show.

Isabelline Bush-hen showed in a field. Collared Kingfisher wasn’t far away. And we of course had several repeats of the birds from the day before.

An extremely sumptuous lunch was our reward. Loads of fresh vegetables in a soup with tofu, mushrooms and seafood. One grouper and one snapper covered in lovely sauces. Sliced 3 layered marinated pork. And a simply delicious asparagus soup for starters. Meanwhile we were overlooking a volcano and taking in the tropical scenery of this great island.

Off we went for a long drive to Kotamabagu. The road is very narrow and traffic moves slowly. Good opportunity to take in the landscape and way of life of these humble people.

We stopped and got scope views of a Green Imperial Pigeon. This particular race has a pink neck which sets it apart from the nominate race we have in Thailand. Another future ‘must split’!
Flocks of Glossy Starlings here and there and then half an hour at some paddies where the highlight was a splendid male Spotted Harrier in flight. Many Wood Sandpipers, a couple of Common Sandpipers, many Pacific Golden Plovers in breeding plumage still, 2 Purple Herons, many Little and Cattle Egret as well as plenty of Javan Pond Heron. White-breasted Wood swallows hawking insects in the air.
In the evening we settled in yet another great hotel with swimming pool, warm water and air-con.

13th.
An early departure for G. Ambung. It was a windy day but no rain or clouds in the sky. Along our way to the forest we walked through a myriad of various vegetables fields. In amongst a stand of trees we were blessed with good views of both Yellow-green as well as Ornate Lorikeets. Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpeckers also showed well and as we left the trees behind us a pair of Fiery-browed Starlings were perched on a dead tree together with a male Great Sulawesi Hanging Parrot.

The forest itself was very quiet and it took a long time before we encountered a small mixed flock. Recent logging activities were clearly seen. New for the trip were Streak-headed Dark-eye and Ruddy-flanked Fantail. Also Sulawesi Babblers, a Superb Fruit Dove were seen on our way up. Many species shone with their absence though. No Scaly Kingfisher, Malia, Purple-bearded Bee-eater or even Chestnut-backed Bush Warbler.

At the top we were trying a long time for Matinan Flycatcher and it wasn’t until 12 o’clock when we decided to give it a miss that the bird suddenly started to sing. We then had great views of this extremely restricted range endemic with the bird coming down low and singing for us for a long time.
Feeling inspired we then walked back all the way to the van but not without connecting with Yellow-vented Whistler and Sulawesi Leaf Warbler first.

Lunch was served at the Home Stay (sumptuous as usual) and a break before we walked all the way back to the forest again. We waited for darkness to fall and give Cinnabar Boobook a try. Not even a sniff! (I did a 2nd tour a few weeks later on had a very bird filled day at Ambung, so things are not ‘written in stone’)

14TH
The objective for the morning was to visit Tambon which is the best site on Northern Sulawesi for the iconic Maleo birds.

No sign of any Maleo this morning. But the afternoon produced several birds in good view as they come in to roost high in tress before laying their eggs in the warm soil the following morning.
Watching these endemic and unique megapodes is very special and both Larry and Andreas got to release a pair of fledling as these birds are highly precocial and ready to stand on their own after only 2 days.

Other good birds: Ashy Woodpecker, White-necked Mynas, Ivory-backed Woodswallows, Pale-blue Monarchs and a glimpse of Red-bellied Pitta for Graham.

We also had cracking views of Rusty-breasted Cuckoo and our 1st views of Black-billed Koel

15th.

Some very pleasant roadside birding this morning. 1st bird was a Sulawesi Black Pigeon in flight display.

Many Red-knobbed Hornbills were flying around, a good sign of a healthy forest.

Loads of motorcycles carrying vegetables from the higher grounds down to the market in town kept us at the side of the road but didn’t interfere with the birding quality.

A flock of Sulawesi Crested Mynas perched for long in a barren tree together with Hair-crested Mynas and Grosbeak Starlings. A Sulawesi Goshawk also perched close to the road. This is a rather hard to come about raptor so very pleasing to have such good views.

Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills also passed through and the male with his yellow face brightened up the otherwise dark birds.

Small Sulawesi Hanging Parrot is much smaller than the Great. We did get to see this difficult bird on a couple of occasions.

Sulawesi Triller was another new one. Other birds seen: Green Imperial Pigeon, White-necked Mynas, Brahimy Kite, several flowerpeckers and a big flock of Grey-cheeked Pigeons.

My new traveling spotting scope from Opticron, the MM3 50mm, came in handy on many an occasion.
I am very pleased with this scope as it is small, easy to operate and though of course not on par with high end Swarovski’s at high powers, still delivers a crisp image that is very pleasant to the eye.

I got it together with a light weight tripod also from Opticron which make for easy walking.
http://www.opticron.co.uk/Pages/mm3_scope.html

A long drive to Manado filled up our afternoon but we did stop a couple of times. The 1st stop at some small wetlands. We saw Wandering Treeducks, Dusky and Common Moorhen and a single Common Kingfisher.

2nd stop produced many Black-faced Munias, another endemic bird to Indonesia.

16th
The night was spent in a high quality hotel at Manado were we enjoyed Wi-Fi and some good food.
Again, we had to get up early for the drive to Tangkoko. Our 1st taste of lowland birding was to come.

Samuel, the local guide escorted us through the morning hours and we had prolonged encounters with some classic birds from this park: Red-bellied Pitta, Green-backed Kingfisher, Lilac Kingfisher, Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher, Red-backed Thrush to name a few. We also got our 1st Tabon Scrubfowl as well as our 1st Sulawesi Hawk Eagle.

The afternoon did not add any new species but it was enjoyable to simply be inside forest cover and to hear the sounds of Imperial Pigeons and Parrots coming from the high canopy.

17th
Half an hour drive before Tangkoko there is a great vantage point overlooking the forest cover and the majestic volcano in the background. Early this morning we found us in this place of wonder.
Again the air was filled with songs from Imperial Pigeons and Parrots. Using our scopes we started to pick out many birds and added some new species for the trip.

Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeons looked like little white angels sitting in the midst of tall green leaved filled trees. A single Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill gave us good photographic opportunities.
Both Golden-mantled and Yellow-breasted Racket-tailed Parrots were heard and seen at length though hard to photograph. The trees were filled with Grosbeak Starlings. Our 1st views of Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon were very welcomed. Green Imperials all over and a pair of White-bellied Imperial Pigeons perched well.

Many Great Hanging Parakeets buzzed about. A pair of Purple Rollers gave us another new species.
Rusty-breasted Cuckoo came real close as did Black Sunbird and Grey-sided Flowerpeckers.
There were hundreds of Uniform, Sulawesi and Glossy Swiftlets in the air. A Sulawesi Triller cheered us all up. It had been a good morning!

Early back to the resort and a few hours of well needed personal time before we left for the afternoon excursion, a boat ride to the mangroves of Tangkoko.

With the volcano of Tangkoko behind us we boarded our boats from the black lava made beach.
Soon we encountered a group of Lesser Frigatebirds (14 birds) that were feeding in a frenzy on a school of small fish. A group of Common Terns joined in.

As we approached the mangrove inlet we spotted a Great-billed Heron that let us get quite close. This was a bird Larry really wanted badly and that Graham had just seen on Bali so we were all pretty happy to see it.

A single Grey-tailed Tattler also gave great views but no sooner had we entered the inlet when a Great-billed Kingfisher flew across the waters to perch in full view. Our target bird in hand! This bird forms its own genus together with Stork-billed Kf and Brown-breasted KF and is another of the many great endemics found on Sulawesi.

We continued on inside the mangroves and spotted a Striated Heron, Common Sandpiper, Golden-bellied Gerygone and another new bird for the trip: White-rumped Cuckoo Shrike.

Also Pink-necked Pigeons showed as did an Osprey with a fish in its talons. A female Rock Thrush was a bit of a surprise on some rocks on our way back.

18th
Back into Tangkoko reserve in the morning after successfully having taped in Sulawesi Scops Owl on the resort grounds the night before.

Our target for the morning was to see Ochre-bellied Boobooks on their day roost. Our guide, Samuel, did a superb job and we had lengthy views of a pair of these warmly colored birds roosting low in some thickets.

We tried hard to see Pied Cuckoo Shrike but only a couple of us caught a glimpse of one.
However, Blue-rumped Parrot showed very well and a Sulawesi Nightjar on a nest was another thrill.
Mammal highlight for the day was a Bear Cuscus sleeping in a tree.
In the afternoon we drove to Manado for a leisurely afternoon with Wi-Fi and air-con before our next travels on the morning following.

19th
Early off to the airport for a flight to Makassar. Here we were picked up by a van and ushered away to some wetlands where we saw 20 plus species. It was nice to have a change of habitat and to see some birds we were familiar with.

After lunch we flew to Palu in Central Sulawesi. Here we again were met by local bird guide and drivers.

A stop at some scrub lands gave us some good regular birding with many Savanna Nightjars seen. Several Blue-tailed Bee-eaters were around looking quite different from what I am used to in Thailand.

Many Chestnut and Black-faced Munias as well as our target White-naped Munias were also pretty strait forward. A group of Sulawesi Trillers and a surprise female White-shouldered Triller were also part of the spectacle as was a pair of Little Bronzed Cuckoos.

Then we kept on to our hotel, Sendy, near to Lore Lindu where a nice dinner was waiting for us.

20th
Early morning breakfast and off birding. Nice temperatures, some of us even put on a light jacket.
The road is badly damaged but intense roadwork will ensure a nice tarmac surface for next year’s visitors.

Our local guide, Idris, picked up the call of Sulawesi Hawk Cuckoo and for the next hour we tried to bring it in view without success. It kept calling but retreated out of sight behind the tall trees on the other side of the lake.

The whole area was quite birdy and it felt good to repeatedly lift the bins to the eyes. Snowy-browed Flycatcher, Blue-fronted Flycatcher, Sulawesi Flyatcher ( a split from Grey-streaked), Grey-rumped Treeswifts, Citrine Lorikeets, Great Sul Hang Parrots, Glossy Swiftlets, Sulawesi Leaf Warber, Malia, Black-fronted White-eyes, Rusty-bellied Fantails, Brown Cuckoo Doves, White-bellied Imperial Pigeons, Sulawesi Drongo, Fiery-browed Starlings, Short-tailed Starlings, Sulawesi Myzomela, Grey-sided Flowerpecker, Collared Kingfisher, Gray Wagtail, Yellow-vented Whistler and Island Verditer Flycatcher were all seen by the road and around the lake. A walk down towards the Asanu track gave us good views of Maroon-backed Whistler and a small group of Cerulean Cuckoo Shrikes.

On the way back to Sendy’s we had a Barred Honey Buzzard in flight and superb views of a Sulawesi Hawk Eagle perched low by the roadside.

The afternoon began at 3 pm with a drive to a spot for nesting Purple-throated Bee-eaters. Unfortunately the birds didn’t show so we went for a walk along the road downhill.
Shortly we had a fruiting tree with 3 Superb Fruit Doves . Such gorgeous birds they are.
A Golden-headed Cicsticola responded to playback as did a Streak-headed Dark-eye but not much else along the road.

On the way back to the hotel we stopped by a Small Sparrowhawk nest where two immature birds were perched. Our 2nd Accipiter for the trip. Then at the resort we managed to tape in a Spectacled Boobook, also our 2nd Owl for the trip.

21st
Our earliest morning so far with a 4 am departure from the hotel. Tried and did hear 3 different Cinnabar Boobooks near the entrance to the Anaso trail.

The trail is dreaded by some, feared by others and yet cherished by some. Seeing I had never done it myself (stayed back with a client on my last visit) I was keen on giving it a go.
Graham and Larry set off with Idris as they were eager to get to the Geomali spot as early as possible.

I on the other hand took my time with frequent stops. The beginning of the trail is quite steep and gets the heart beating. Along the way I stopped for birds here and there and enjoyed the scenery. The track begins at 1700m asl and ends at 2400. The Geomali spot is from 3.5-4.5 km and the summit is about 7km. I caught up with the others around 8:20 and they had not seen the target bird yet. They did have Mountain Serins, Purple-bearded Bee-eaters, Satanic Nightjars, Red-eared Fruit Dove, Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater and a few more things. At 8:50 an inconic Geomali crossed the trail and gave the briefest of views. We continued and about 20 minutes later connected with the bird again as it worked its way along the path. This time with long views.

My 1st time up the trail and getting it on the 1st try was quite special.

A long searched for Hylocitreas left us empty handed but we did get good views of Great Shortwing and eventually the sought after Pygmy Cuckoo Shrike.

A few hours in the afternoon was spent along the road and around the area down to the lake. This is a bird rich area and especially good for Chestnut-backed Bush Warbler. One came very close and after quite some work we all had good though brief views of this classy species.

Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater, Black-fronted White-eye, Blue-fronted FC, Pygmy Cuckoo Shrike, Citrine Lorikeets and more gave great views as well.

On the way back to the resort we spotted a Sulawesi Crested Serpent Eagle perched in a tree…

22nd
Yet another very early morning, the reason being we wanted to get on to the Sulawesi Masked Owl often found not far from the hotel. Sure enough, we had good views of one perched on the church tower!

We then proceeded to visit an area inside of the Napu Valley not many birders visit. Our target birds were Sulawesi Cicadabird and Tawny Grassbird. An hour’s drive took us to a potential area for the Cicadabirds and we greeted the morning getting a feeling for more open area birdlife. Birds seen here were both Golden-headed and Zitting Cisticola, White-breasted Woodswallows, Grey-cheeked Pigeons, Black-naped Oriole, Hair-crested Drongo, White-bellied Imperial Pigeon, Yellow-bellied White-eyes, Spotted Pigeons AND a pair of Sulawesi Cicadabirds!

We then drove back towards the hotel and stopped at several sites looking for the Grassbird. We did get decent views of this skulker on two different locations. The race found on Sulawesi is different from the one found in Australia and the bird is only found on two different valleys on the mainland of Sulawesi.

The afternoon saw us set out to a recently logged area within the valley in pursuit of the scarce Piping Crow. The Crow fetches a good price on the local pet market and is increasingly difficult to find.

After a long search we eventually got some distant views of one.

Owling for Cinnabar boobook in the evening. We connected with 5 different individuals but none would show.

23rd
Last morning at Lore Lindu. With so many birds seen we didn’t really expect much new but what a great surprise we were to receive.

Theo wanted to stop and try for the Scaly Kingfisher at a spot he thought looked good.
Amazingly, the bird replied to playback. Idris stirred up all his skills and after 10 minutes of scanning the dense forest he pointed his laser to where the bird was perched! We were all totally flabbergasted as this was our very last hours of birding on Sulawesi and we had tried the bird at so many places to no avail prior to this!

So, feeling pretty good we kept walking along the road. Then Idris managed to get us all on to a single Hylocitrea by the roadside. We had missed it on the Anasu trail and didn’t expect it along the road. This bird is placed in its own family having previously been lumped in with Whistlers.
A long drive to Palu followed and a sumptuous meal before our flight to Makassar.

In Makassar we checked in at Regency Hotel, a swanky upscale hotel with fast Wi-Fi, air-con, and hot showers and good food.

24th
A direct flight from Makassar to Ternate and then speed boat to Sindangoli on Halmahera.
From the boat we spotted a few Red-necked Phalaropes, Black-naped Terns, Common Terns and some Great Crested Terns.

By the mangroves we tried calling out Beach Kingfisher but had to settle for flight views as the bird settled inside the mangroves.

Afternoon birding along the road with owling before late dinner at our rather basic hotel.

Birding can be quite trying on Halmahera but armed with patience we did see Papuan Hornbills, Pacific Baza, Moustached Treeswifts, Eclectus Parrots, Chattering Lorry, Paradise Crow, Rufous-bellied Triller, Varied Goshawk (Grey-headed), Grey-headed Fruit Dove, Brown Cuckoo Dove, Black Sunbird, Spotted Kestrel and Grey-streaked Flycatcher. Our nightbird adventure was not very successful with only Large-tailed Nightjar and Moluccan Nightjar Owlet seen.

The night was spent in nice cool air-conditioned rooms which is one step up from the regular lodging at Sindangoli. The place still leaves a lot to be desired as far as bathroom standards but the food was good and we got up very early the next morning again.

This time the Moluccan Owlet Nightjar did not disappoint and everyone got to see this unique creature.

After that followed a very interesting morning of roadside birding that kept adding and adding new species. Birding isn’t all that easy on Halmahera but just about each bird seen was a lifer. Here are some of them: Moluccan Hanging Parrot, Spectacled Imperial Pigeon, Blue-capped Fruit Dove, White Cockatoo, Cream-throated White Eye, Red-cheeked Parrot, Violet-necked Lory, Red-flanked Lory, Azure Dollarbirds, Gurney’s Eagle, Goliath Coucal, Blue-white Kingfisher, White-streaked Friarbird, Black-chinned Whistler etc.

We arrived at Weda Lodge in the late afternoon. This lodge is the only upscale place on Halmahera and is actually mainly a diving resort. High standard rooms, friendly management and personal, good food and good guiding were to come our way. Mind you, the place comes with a price.
We proceeded to bird with the local guide Danny who, upon request, took us to a place for Ivory-breasted Pitta. It took some time but eventually the bird showed in normal fashion, hiding behind some leaves high in a tree! Sweet relief to have this mega cracker in the bag!

Dinner was sumptuous and weary bodies went for an early night as Wallace’s Standardwing was on the schedule early next morning.

25th
Early breakfast and off for the Wallace’s Standardwing. Only a 20 minutes’ walk as opposed to the up to 2 hour walks I have done in other places in the past.

We watched about 10 birds displaying for well over an hour. It is of course a major spectacle to watch these strongly decorated birds in action but photography is always a challenge in the early morning light and lots of vegetation.

We stayed in forest cover for the morning trying to draw out some bird of the interior forest.
Our best luck came with a very handsome male Moluccan Goshawk perched in full view.
After a long effort we also finally got a Halmahera Oriole in full view.

Back for a nice lunch and some rest and back out again at 3 pm. This time some roadside birding and we added Drab Whistler, Moluccan Cuckoo Shrike and Great-billed Parrot to our growing list of birds on Halmahera.

There were lots of parrots flying around with a flock of 47 Violet-necked Lories being a major highlight. Also, Red-cheeked, Eclectus and Red-flanked Lorikeets.
A Sombre Kingfisher perched on a wire was a bit weird but gave good photographic opportunity.

We tried for the Paradise Common Kingfisher at many places and finally managed to get one in view.
Another Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler was heard but not seen.
Owling session produced Moluccan Scops Owl and a Cuscus of a sort.

26th
Another lovely night at this paradise like resort.
Off early for some more roadside birding. It was very nice to see healthy numbers of Eclectus Parrots.

We tried to target birds not seen and actually ended up with several: Scarlet-breasted Fruit Pigeon,Maluccan Cuckoo Shrike, White-necked Monarch and a fantastic Great Cuckoo Dove.
After lunch we said goodbye and drove all the way to Sidangoli, a 4 hours drive. This time we didn’t stop along the way. Instead we set out for some owling but couldn’t find the Boobook we were hoping for.

Fantastic authentic food again at our humble abode.

28th
A couple of hours birding along a jeep track produced our last endemic: Spectacled Monarch. Several Ivory-breasted Pittas were calling, Blyth’s Hornbills flying about, some ‘old fashioned’ general birding that helped to establish impressions from this exotic island.

Transfer to Ternate via express boat and a short flight to Manado where we said goodbye.

We all agreed that the tour had been successful with loads of unique birds seen. 253 birds recorded with almost 100 of them being endemic to the Wallacea region.

PS. For this trip I had acquired a new spotting scope, Opticron MM3 GE HD 50mm along with a lightweight tripod.
The scope turned out to be a big blessing as it is sharp, suitable for forest roadside birding and easy to use.


Birdlist: S=Sulawesi H=Halmahera
1. Wandering Whistling Duck – S
2. Maleo – S
3. Philippine Scrubfowl/Megapode – S
4. Dusky Scrubfowl/Megapode - H
5. Red Junglefowl – S
6. Striated Heron – S, H
7. Javan Pond Heron – S
8. Pacific Reed Heron - H
9. Great-billed Heron - S
10. Purple Heron – S
11. Eastern Cattle Egret – S
12. Little Egret – S, H
13. Lesser Frigatebird –S, H
14. Eastern Osprey – H
15. Black-winged Kite – S
16. Barred Honey Buzzard – S
17. Pacific Baza – H
18. Sulawesi Serpent Eagle – S
19. Sulawesi Hawk Eagle – S
20. Rufous-bellied Eagle – S
21. Black Eagle – S
22. Gurney’s Eagle – H
23. Sulawesi Goshawk – S
24. Spot-tailed Sparrowhawk– S, heard only
25. Japanese Sparrowhawk - S
26. Moluccan Goshawk – H
27. Grey Goshawk (Variable) – S
28. Spotted Harrier – S
29. Black Kite – S
30. Brahimy Kite – S, H
31. White-bellied Sea Eagle – H
32. Oriental Hobby – S
33. Spotted Kestrel – S, H
34. Barred Rail – S
35. Buff-banded Rail – S
36. Isabelline Bush Hen – S
37. Pale-vented Bush hen – H
38. White-browed Crake – S
39. Common Moorhen – S
40. Dusky Moorhen – S
41. White-headed Stilt – S
42. Pacific Golden Plover – S
43. Kentish Plover - S
44. Lesser Sand Plover – S
45. Greater Sand Plover – S
46. Marsh Sandpiper – S
47. Common Greenshank – S
48. Wood Sandpiper – S
49. Grey-tailed Tattler – S
50. Common Sandpiper – S, H
51. Ruddy Turnstone – S
52. Red-necked Stint – S
53. Long-toed Stint – S
54. Red-necked Phalarope – H
55. Gull-billed Turn – S
56. Little Tern – S
57. Common Tern – S, H
58. Whiskered Tern – S
59. White-winged Tern – S
60. Great Crested Tern – H
61. Black-naped Tern – H
62. Rock Dove – S, H
63. Spotted Dove – S, H
64. Zebra Dove – S
65. Red-turtle Dove – S
66. Metallic Pigeon – H
67. Slender-billed Cuckoo Dove – S, H
68. Great Cuckoo Dove – H
69. White-faced Cuckoo Dove – S
70. Stephan’s Emerald Dove – S
71. Nicobar Pigeon – H
72. Sulawesi Ground Cuckoo – S
73. Pink-necked Pigeon – S
74. Grey-cheeked Pigeon – S
75. Red-eared Fruit Dove – S
76. Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove – H
77. Superb Fruit Dove – S
78. Blue-capped Fruit Dove – H
79. Grey-headed Fruit Dove – H
80. Black-naped Fruit Dove –S
81. White-bellied Imperial Pigeon – S
82. Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon – S
83. Green Imperial Pigeon – S
84. Pied Imperial Pigeon –S
85. Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon – S
86. Spectacled Imperial Pigeon – H
87. Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon - H
88. Bay Coucal – S
89. Lesser Coucal – S, H
90. Goliath Coucal – H
91. Yellow-billed Malkoha – S
92. Black-billed Koel
93. Little Bronze Cuckoo - S
94. Plaintive Cuckoo – S, heard only
95. Rusty-breasted Cuckoo
96. Brush Cuckoo – H, heard only
97. Sulawesi Cuckoo – S, heard only
98. Sulawesi Masked Owl – S
99. Moluccan Scops Owl – H
100. Sulawesi Scops Owl – S
101. Ochre-bellied Boobook – S
102. Cinnabar Boobook – S, heard only
103. Speckled Boobook – S
104. Great-eared Nightjar – S
105. Large-tailed Nightjar – H
106. Sulawesi Nightjar – S
107. Satanic Nightjar – S
108. Savanna Nightjar - S
109. Moluccan Owlet Nightjar – H
110. Grey-rumped Treeswift – S
111. Moustached Treeswift – H
112. Glossy Swiftlet – S, H
113. Uniform Swiftlet – S, H
114. Sulawesi Swiftlet – S
115. Halmahera Swiftlet – H
116. Edible Nest Swiftlet – S
117. House Swift – S
118. Purple-winged Roller – S
119. Azure Dollarbird – H
120. Common Dollarbird – H
121. Green-backed Kingfisher – S
122. Scaly-breasted Kingfisher – S
123. Common Paradise Kingfisher – H
124. Lilac Kingfisher – S
125. Great-billed Kingfisher – S
126. Ruddy Kingfisher – S
127. Blue-white Kingfisher – H
128. Sombre Kingfisher – H
129. Common Kingfisher – S
130. Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher – S
131. Collared Kingfisher – S
132. Beach Kingfisher – H
133. Purple-bearded Bee-eater – S
134. Blue-tailed Bee-eater – H
135. Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill – S
136. Red-knobbed Hornbill – S
137. Blyth’s Hornbill – H
138. Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker – S
139. Ashy Woodpecker - S
140. White Cockatoo – H
141. Great Hanging Parrot – S
142. Moluccan Hanging Parrot – H
143. Small Hanging Parrot – S
144. Violet-necked Lory – H
145. Ornate Lorikeet – S
146. Yellow-green Lorikeet – S
147. Chattering Lory – H
148. Red-flanked Lorikeet - H
149. Red-cheeked Lorikeet - H
150. Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail – S
151. Golden-mantled Racquet-tail
152. Great-billed Parrot – H
153. Blue-backed Parrot – S
154. Eclectus Parrot – H
155. Red-bellied Pitta – S
156. Ivory-breasted Pitta – H
157. Sulawesi Myzomela – S
158. White-streaked Friarbird – H
159. Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater - S
160. Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater – S
161. Golden-bellied Gerygone – S
162. White-breasted Woodswallow – S
163. Ivory-backed Woodswallow – S
164. Moluccan Cuckooshrike – H
165. Halmahera Cuckooshrike – H
166. Cerulean Cuckooshrike – S
167. Pygmy Cuckooshrike – S
168. Pied Cuckooshrike –
169. White-bellied Cuckooshrike – H
170. White-rumped Cuckooshrike –S
171. Common Cicadabird – H
172. Sulawesi Cicadabird – S
173. White-shouldered Triller – S
174. Rufous-bellied Triller – H
175. Maroon-backed Whistler – S
176. Yellow-vented Whistler – S
177. Black-chinned Whistler (Golden) – H
178. Drab Whistler – H
179. Hylocitrea – S
180. Dusky-brown Oriole (Halmahera Oriole) – H
181. Black-naped Oriole – S
182. Hair-crested Drongo - S
183. Sulawesi Drongo - S
184. Papuan Spangled Drongo – H
185. Willie Wagtail – H
186. Rusty-bellied Fantail – S
187. Pale-blue Monarch – S
188. Moluccan (spectacled) Monarch – H
189. White-naped Monarch – H
190. Moluccan (Slaty) Flycatcher – H
191. Shining Flycatcher – H
192. Slender-billed Crow – S
193. Long-billed Crow – H
194. Piping Crow – S
195. Paradise Crow – H
196. Standardwing – H
197. Citrine Flycatcher – S
198. Sooty-headed Bulbl – S
199. Northern Golden Bulbul – H
200. Malia – S
201. Barn Swallow – S, H
202. Pacific Swallow - S, H
203. Mountain Tailorbird – S
204. Arctic Warbler – S
205. Sulawesi Leaf Warbler – S
206. Chestnut-backed Bush Warbler – S
207. Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler – H
208. Tawny Grassbird – S
209. Zitting Cisticola – S
210. Golden-headed Cisticola – S
211. Sulawesi Babbler – S
212. Streak-headed White-eye – S
213. Cream-throated White-eye – H
214. Lemon-bellied White-eye –S
215. Mountain White-eye – S
216. Black-crowned White-eye –S
217. Metallic Starling – H
218. Moluccan Starling – H
219. Asian Glossy Starling – S
220. Short-tailed Starling - S
221. Sulawesi Crested Myna – S
222. White-necked Myna – S
223. Fiery-browed Starling – S
224. Grosbeak Starling – S
225. Red-backed Thrush – S
226. Geomalia – S
227. Sulawesi Thrush - S
228. Grey-streaked Flycatcher – S, H
229. Sulawesi Flycatcher – S (not yet described species)
230. Snowy-browed Flycatcher - S
231. Blue-fronted Flycatcher – S
232. Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher – S
233. Matinan Flycatcher - S
234. Turqouise Verditer – S
235. Great Shortwing – S
236. Little Pied Flycatcher – S
237. Blue Rock Thrush – S
238. Pied Bush Chat – S
239. Yellow-sided Flowerpecker – S
240. Grey-sided Flowerpecker – S
241. Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker – S
242. Brown-throated Sunbird – S
243. Olive-backed Sunbird – S, H
244. Crimson Sunbird – S
245. Black Sunbird – S, H
246. Eurasian Treesparrow – S, H
247. Black-faced Munia – S
248. Chestnut Munia – S, H
249. Scaly-breasted Munia – S
250. Pale-headed Munia – S
251. Eastern Yellow Wagtail – S,H
252. Grey Wagtail – S
253. Mountain Serin - S
Dining
Dining
Andreas releasing a Maleo chick
Andreas releasing a Maleo chick
Gunung Ambung
Gunung Ambung
Sunset!
Sunset!
Peter, Graham, Larry and Andreas
Peter, Graham, Larry and Andreas
Using gear!
Using gear!
Mangroves
Mangroves
Me with a Megalith
Me with a Megalith
Idris and Theo
Idris and Theo
Anasu track
Anasu track
Halmahera forest cover
Halmahera forest cover
Fresh coconut!
Fresh coconut!
Authentic food!
Authentic food!
Crimson Sunbird
Crimson Sunbird
Olive-backed Sunbird
Olive-backed Sunbird
Maleo
Maleo
Matinan Flycatcher
Matinan Flycatcher
Lilac Kingfisher
Lilac Kingfisher
Green-backed Kingfisher
Green-backed Kingfisher
Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher
Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher
Red-bellied Pitta
Red-bellied Pitta
Red-backed Thrush
Red-backed Thrush
Sulawesi Goshawk
Sulawesi Goshawk
Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill
Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill
Sulawesi Hornbill
Sulawesi Hornbill
Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon
Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon
Sulawesi Triller
Sulawesi Triller
Black-naped Fruit Dove
Black-naped Fruit Dove
Rusty-breasted Cuckoo
Rusty-breasted Cuckoo
Lesser Frigatebird
Lesser Frigatebird
Great-billed Heron
Great-billed Heron
White-rumped Cuckoo Shrike
White-rumped Cuckoo Shrike
Hair=crested Drongo
Hair=crested Drongo
Grey-tailed Tattler
Grey-tailed Tattler
Black-fronted White-eye
Black-fronted White-eye
Great-billed Kingfisher
Great-billed Kingfisher
Blue-backed Parrot
Blue-backed Parrot
Ashy Woodpecker, female
Ashy Woodpecker, female
Ochre-bellied Boobook
Ochre-bellied Boobook
Sulawesi Nightjar
Sulawesi Nightjar
Little Bronze Cuckoo, male
Little Bronze Cuckoo, male
Little Bronze Cuckoo, female
Little Bronze Cuckoo, female
Cerulean Cuckoo Shrike
Cerulean Cuckoo Shrike
Sulawesi Hawk Eagle
Sulawesi Hawk Eagle
Superb Fruit Dove
Superb Fruit Dove
Streak-headed White-eye
Streak-headed White-eye
Geomalia
Geomalia
Geomalia
Geomalia
Heindrich Nightjar (Diabolical)
Heindrich Nightjar (Diabolical)
Blue-fronted Flycatcher
Blue-fronted Flycatcher
Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater
Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater
Purple-bearded Bee-eater
Purple-bearded Bee-eater
Pygmy Cuckoo Shrike
Pygmy Cuckoo Shrike
Red-eared Fruit Dove
Red-eared Fruit Dove
White-bellied Imperial Pigeon
White-bellied Imperial Pigeon
Hylocitrea
Hylocitrea
Pale-headed and Chestnut Munia
Pale-headed and Chestnut Munia
Pale-headed Munia
Pale-headed Munia
Papuan Hornbill
Papuan Hornbill
Black Sunbird
Black Sunbird
Cream-throated White-eye
Cream-throated White-eye
Slaty Flycatcher
Slaty Flycatcher
Purple Dollarbird
Purple Dollarbird
Rufous-tailed Bushhen
Rufous-tailed Bushhen
Halmahera Oriole
Halmahera Oriole
Standardwing
Standardwing
Standardwing
Standardwing
Standardwing
Standardwing
Moluccan Cockoo Shrike
Moluccan Cockoo Shrike
Drab Whistler
Drab Whistler
Goliath Coucal
Goliath Coucal
Eclectus Parrot, male
Eclectus Parrot, male
Eclectus Parrot, male
Eclectus Parrot, male
Moustached Treeswift
Moustached Treeswift
 Spectacled Imperial Pigeon
Spectacled Imperial Pigeon
Lesser Coucal
Lesser Coucal
Violet-necked Lory
Violet-necked Lory
White Cockatoo
White Cockatoo
Sombre Kingfisher
Sombre Kingfisher
Moustached Treeswift
Moustached Treeswift
Moluccan Cockoo Shrike
Moluccan Cockoo Shrike
Gurney's Eagle
Gurney's Eagle
Slaty Flycatcher
Slaty Flycatcher
Papuan Hornbill
Papuan Hornbill
Pacific Baza
Pacific Baza
Black-crested Macaque
Black-crested Macaque
Gorontalo Macaque
Gorontalo Macaque
Spectacled Tarsier
Spectacled Tarsier
Bear Cuscus
Bear Cuscus