Days 17 & 18: While it is still raining slightly but with a promising weather forecast, we start back up to camp 1. We get to camp 1 with wet socks but good spirits. The weather looks good the next morning but we have to shovel about 10-15cm snow off our tent. We start our ascent leisurely and break new trail through the icefall. All is going well until suddenly at close to 19,000ft it gets very warm and the snow starts glopping our skins very badly. And we have made a big mistake: our skin wax is still in camp 1 and of no help. We continue to power to camp 2 but are spent when we get there. We spend the rest of the day with melting snow but the stove pump is not working properly and we have difficulty getting a stable flame. And we made a second mistake: the spare pump is in basecamp.