it's getting late when we cross the Dniester river from Ukraine into Moldova, with Alex and Vitaly |
but we arrive quickly at Soroca, where Marla's Blecher ancestors lived |
our first stop is the 16th-c. Soroca Fortress... |
...originally built under Moldova's Stephen the Great |
a picturesque site for celebrations |
then up to the Candle... |
...to take in views of the Dniester... |
...and across the river to Ukraine |
Alex and Vitaly compete for low-light photography |
the next morning, we start at the synagogue |
Mr. Wexler greets us for a tour |
he is a prominent local businessman, and looks after the Jewish buildings and cemetery |
inside the synagogue |
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in the women's section, with a view into the main hall |
the library, with books on Jewish topics... |
...and about the history of the Soroca community |
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Mr. Wexler also shows us an index to the graves in the Jewish cemetery |
#63 on this list is Ida Blecher; we have no direct records, but she may have been a relative |
we follow Mr. Wexler to the cemetery |
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it is surprisingly large, and filled with markers and memorials |
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here is a monument to the victims of the Shoah, noting the towns where they died |
now we are off to see graves of people with names linked to Marla's relatives |
here's Ida Blecher... |
...Alex spots this Schwartzman stone as we pass... |
...another group of Schwartzmans, from the index... |
...and a Schwartz family |
elsewhere in the cemetery, Mr. Wexler shows us a memorial to victims of a killing at a Soroca bridge |
the group discusses the wartime history of the town |
a last look over the cemetery before we go |
then a brief visit to the bridge where local Jews died in the war |
Mr. Wexler also has good ties with the local Romani community... |
...and takes us on a tour of their neighborhoods... |
...to see their unique domestic architecture |
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the facade of this house is styled after the Bolshoi ballet house |
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a passer-by points out some special features to Vitaly |
these two houses incorporate a dollar-sign logo into their fence |
this one features a missile on the upper balcony |
we are greeted warmly in the neighborhood |
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this building was once a synagogue |
Marla discusses the neighborhood's past with a resident |
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the range of styles is remarkable |
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then Mr. Wexler introduces us to the head of the Romani community, at his home |
Artur is working to provide higher-level schools for his community; we are charmed |
Artur is also a collector of porcelain sculptures... |
...and a talented musician! |
finally it is time to head back to Ukraine |
pano: Dniester river from the fortress |
pano: Dniester river from the Candle |