  it's getting late when we cross the Dniester river from Ukraine into Moldova, with Alex and Vitaly | 
  but we arrive quickly at Soroca, where Marla's Blecher ancestors lived | 
  our first stop is the 16th-c. Soroca Fortress... | 
  ...originally built under Moldova's Stephen the Great | 
  a picturesque site for celebrations | 
  then up to the Candle... | 
  ...to take in views of the Dniester... | 
  ...and across the river to Ukraine | 
  Alex and Vitaly compete for low-light photography | 
  the next morning, we start at the synagogue | 
  Mr. Wexler greets us for a tour | 
  he is a prominent local businessman, and looks after the Jewish buildings and cemetery | 
  inside the synagogue | 
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  in the women's section, with a view into the main hall | 
  the library, with books on Jewish topics... | 
  ...and about the history of the Soroca community | 
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  Mr. Wexler also shows us an index to the graves in the Jewish cemetery | 
  #63 on this list is Ida Blecher; we have no direct records, but she may have been a relative | 
  we follow Mr. Wexler to the cemetery | 
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  it is surprisingly large, and filled with markers and memorials | 
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  here is a monument to the victims of the Shoah, noting the towns where they died | 
  now we are off to see graves of people with names linked to Marla's relatives | 
  here's Ida Blecher... | 
  ...Alex spots this Schwartzman stone as we pass... | 
  ...another group of Schwartzmans, from the index... | 
  ...and a Schwartz family | 
  elsewhere in the cemetery, Mr. Wexler shows us a memorial to victims of a killing at a Soroca bridge | 
  the group discusses the wartime history of the town | 
  a last look over the cemetery before we go | 
  then a brief visit to the bridge where local Jews died in the war | 
  Mr. Wexler also has good ties with the local Romani community... | 
  ...and takes us on a tour of their neighborhoods... | 
  ...to see their unique domestic architecture | 
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  the facade of this house is styled after the Bolshoi ballet house | 
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  a passer-by points out some special features to Vitaly | 
  these two houses incorporate a dollar-sign logo into their fence | 
  this one features a missile on the upper balcony | 
  we are greeted warmly in the neighborhood | 
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  this building was once a synagogue | 
  Marla discusses the neighborhood's past with a resident | 
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  the range of styles is remarkable | 
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  then Mr. Wexler introduces us to the head of the Romani community, at his home | 
  Artur is working to provide higher-level schools for his community; we are charmed | 
  Artur is also a collector of porcelain sculptures... | 
  ...and a talented musician! | 
  finally it is time to head back to Ukraine | 
  pano: Dniester river from the fortress | 
  pano: Dniester river from the Candle |