 we arrive in Stockholm... |
 ...and take an apartment in Södermalm for four weeks |
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 time to go sightseeing, starting with the park across the street |
 up above us is an historic hospital |
 the climb up will give us a view over town from the cliff |
 Södermalm is an old and once-poor part of Stockholm... |
 ...with a fantastic view of the central part of town... |
 ...and all over the several islands making up the city |
 looking eastward toward the Baltic |
 looking back up the cliff from the wharf |
 up on the cliff again, among the old houses |
 there are bicycles all over town; you'll see them in later photos |
 lots of brick faces in Stockholm's older areas... |
 ...and quiet streets during the summer holidays |
 entering the churchyard of Katarina kyrka... |
 ...a stately Stockholm landmark on Södermalm |
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 many historic houses have survived on this island |
 Sofia kyrka, on the east end of Södermalm |
 the peculiar Globen arena, south of Södermalm |
 walking the neigborhoods... |
 ...near the southern theatre |
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 here's another way down to the water... |
 ...to stop in the Stockholm city museum |
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 an interesting display on play and playgrounds in the city |
 and a deep display of building styles, materials, etc. |
 plus some re-created historic interiors |
 the Katarina elevator as it once appeared... |
 ...and today, just outside the museum |
 back in our neighborhood |
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 it doesn't take long to walk to a quiet neighborhood (here, the island of Reimersholme) |
 some new architecture... |
 ...and some new technology (here, solar power) |
 but: there are still pockets of older technology! |
 the Slussen lock and bridges connect Södermalm to Gamla Stan... |
 ...the original island and center of Stockholm |
 it has some lovely 16th-c. streets and squares |
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 the castle also: here's a daily changing of the guard |
 we escape the crowds to a back street |
 Stockholm spreads all around Gamla Stan |
 remember what we said about bicycles? |
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 city archeologists still find things here when buildings are repaired |
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 Stortorget (the Big Square); coins from the 13th-c. have been found here |
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 crossing the Riksbron isn't bad some days... |
 ...but watch out on weekends! |
 a mermaid lures us down under the northern bridge... |
 ...to the Middle Ages museum |
 a model of Gamla Stan, where Stockholm began |
 a relic of the first city wall |
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 some re-created dyes for medieval paints |
 hey, this guy has an arrow-hole in his head! |
 hmmm... time to get out of here |
 we take a local train out to Lidingö, home to Millesgården... |
 ...former residence of artists Olga and Carl Milles |
 Towards Another World |
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 the Hand of God |
 Icarus |
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 looks like Jay is concerned about joint strength in one of those sculptures |
 in town again, now heading for Skeppsholmen (ship's island) |
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 the sky is changing rapidly today |
 a view back toward Södermalm |
 now we are at the Moderna Museet... |
 ...which this year is featuring photography |
 here's Irving Penn on a familiar face |
 in another wing, a great collection of Soviet posters... |
 ...and down the central aisle, more art that moves |
 on the Skeppsholm bridge again, heading toward Norrmalm... |
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 ...for a visit to the National Museum |
 it's a lovely building with an eclectic mix of Swedish and foreign art |
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 some classics of Scandinavian design! |
 out in Norrmalm again, the central business area of Stockholm |
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 a long view toward Stadshuset (city hall) |
 the city hall complex is at the tip of Kungholmen... |
 ...giving good views over water to the west... |
 ...and east... |
 ...and south to our island |
 now we're back in Norrmalm |
 here's the Museum of the Mediterranean... |
 ...a collection of art and history from all around that sea |
 works from Egypt and Cyprus... |
 ...share space with graceful Islamic designs |
 uh-oh... |
 a great collection of pottery from all ages and areas |
 out on the streets in Östermalm |
 the historic 'saluhall' or covered market |
 lots of traditional foods here... |
 ...and at least one rare type |
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 the nautical theme is evident in several of the buildings around town |
 that's gotta hurt |
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 now we're on Strandvägen, a row of 19th-c. houses facing Skeppsholmen |
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 a little bit of advertising for the building trades |
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 Oscarskyrkan, another turn-of-the-century gem |
 now we're at the Historiska museum, which houses Sweden's largest collection of antiquities |
 a model of Birka, a Viking-era trading center and proto-town |
 the Istaby runestone, the oldest known example of this common Swedish relic |
 easily the largest collection of Viking-era combs we've ever seen! |
 also unexpected: the museum describes how 'Vikings' were practically invented in the 19th century |
 a generous collection of medieval church art from all over Sweden |
 in this tradition, Mary is blond |
 another tradition |
 Eve before the fall, in baroque style |
 now we pass the Opera house, on our way to Vasastan in the north part of the city |
 here's Stockholm's Jewish museum... |
 ...a learning center about traditions and Sweden's Jewish history |
 a model of the synagogue in the southern city of Malmö |
 the pulpit from the 19th-c. synagogue on Gamla Stan |
 an amusing display on the contributions of Jews to comic books |
 later that day, crossing the Sankt Eriks bridge to Kungsholmen |
 in the middle of the island, a tiny Jewish cemetery (Aronsberg) dating from 1776 |
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 a few blocks away, the second burial ground (Kronoberg), from 1782 |
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 back on Södermalm, this house sheltered Jewish immigrants in the 1920's |
 this building on Gamla Stan was a synagogue from 1795 thru the 19th-c. |
 now at the edge of Norrmalm, a memorial to Raoul Wallenberg |
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 this part of the memorial, a railroad with bricks from the Budapest wartime ghetto... |
 ...leads to the Great Synagogue of Stockholm |
 the building was designed in oriental style by a Swedish architect... |
 ...and opened in 1870 |
 the ark, with many scrolls |
 an unusual torah shield, with the emblem of the Swedish monarchy |
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 a memorial to Shoah victims remembered by immigrant Jews after the war |
 Marla with the docent at the wall of remembrance |
 on our way along the water again... |
 ...this time heading to Djurgården (the historic royal game park island)... |
 ...to visit the Vasa ship museum |
 the great ship sank in 1628, and was raised in 1961 |
 this is how it looked when Jay saw it in 1977... |
 ...but look at it today! |
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 the new museum is a remarkable exhibition space |
 here's one of the spare sails recovered from inside the ship... |
 ...with parts of the rigging intact as well |
 marine archeologists have established many facts about the people who went down with the ship |
 most of the flamboyant carvings are still intact |
 mocking the enemy (here, the Poles) |
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 a common danger for sailors |
 outside again, keeping an eye on the weather |
 the tip of the Nordiska museum, yet another turn-of-the-century giant |
 now a day out of town, visiting historic Sigtuna on Lake Mälaren |
 visible structures date from before the 16th-c., but the city is Sweden's first, originating in the 10th-c. |
 runestones have been extracted from the foundations of the church ruins |
 our guides are friends Eric and Lollo, who visited these sites as school children |
 the landscape and old buildings are typical of the rocky coastal areas around Stockholm |
 the old church at Skokloster castle |
 Vaxholm castle, since the 16th-c. a key sea defense against Danes and Russians |
 back in town, we head out to Djurgården again... |
 ...for a quick stop at the 'biological museum'... |
 ...a kind of taxidermy-in-the-round exhibit |
 it's a good display of native Swedish species... |
 ...and some rarer examples |
 now we're moving on to Skansen |
 it's Stockholm's famous collection of vernacular architecture... |
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 ...and northern wildlife... |
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 ...and city water views... |
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 ...and folk customs... |
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 ...and gardens |
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 Skansen is the world's oldest open-air museum |
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 it's also just a great place to walk and get a broad taste of Sweden |
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 houses range from the grand... |
 ...to the humble... |
 ...to the utilitarian |
 here's a pair built in alottment gardens for factory workers... |
 ...originally from Södermalm |
 the interior of the red house |
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 the creator of Skansen lived here until 1901 |
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 another bicycle! |
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 heading back to town center via the water's edge |
 saying farewell... |
 ...and reflecting on our great time in Stockholm... |
 pano: Stockholm harbor from Norrmalm |
 pano: Stockholm harbor from Södermalm |
 pano: cruise ship from Södermalm |