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Brent E | all galleries >> climb >> Bancroft in March > Top Vertical section of Eiger
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11-MAR-2007

Top Vertical section of Eiger

After climbing through the tree the I slung I got a good angle in a seam where Nate said I could have got some nuts. I wasn’t really looking for nut placements, for some reason, and didn’t even think about them. Up some more and after pulling on some granite, which was warm and rough, I got to a bomber cedar (that I also pulled on! lol). I had 2 screamers, 1 webolette, and 1 3/4” cam on my harness and 25 feet of ice ahead, so I wrapped the tree with the webbing and started up the ice! The red webolette is seen in this picture mid left frame.

It was terrific! I was getting tired, but the ice was great. The 16cm went in after 5 or 10 feet, and a 12cm grivel sunk close to the bulge. As I pulled that bulge, my hands were failing, my tools weren’t sticking, I was beating away at the ice and having the tools glint off as my limp wrists struggled! Finally, I pulled over the top. 40 feet later and about 50 from the last screw I got to a decent tree to belay Nate from.

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1/250s f/5.0 at 9.6mm full exif

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