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J.D. Confused 30-Oct-2018 02:09
I know these posts are about engine starting but i have no where else to go.
I have an electric wheelchair, powered by 2 70ah batteries, each battery powers a single 4 post electric motor. L. Wheel and R. Wheel respectively. Both negative wires are fused with 70 amp inline fuses that are quick blow and shrink wrapped.
My question is 70 amp ANL fuses are too slow to blow. What kind of 70 amp inline fuse do i need? The manufacturerer will not say. Of course they sell the fuse with the wires and a plug connected (pre assembled) for $75. These chairs are sold to physically and cognitively disabled people. But it takes less than 2 seconds to blow the fuse if you bump against a door or whatever and your reflexes aren't fast enough to release the joystick. Joystick in the forward position, 2 seconds elapse and power. I know one poor (literally) guy that blew 3 fuses in 3 weeks. It took this man 2 months to pay for 2 fuse "units". 2 .onths with no mobility or ability to go to Dr.'s appointments.
Is there any way to steer me to the correct mini (midi like) inline fuse? Same style as the mini ANL but not a slow blowing fuse.
Pauline 15-Sep-2018 06:48
I always rely on your posts to get me started on a marine subject. Our Universal M25XP is currently outfitted with a 155A alternator. Grossly overpowered compared to the original Prestolite 51A.

I'm considering going back to the 51A. We have a single 12v 400Ah battery bank for house and starting power. The alternator and voltage regulator have been out of commission for over a month, and I've done 5 weeks of solo sailing and anchoring (never firing up the engine) in that time, without ever having the battery voltage SOC go below 85%. Thanks to 600w of solar bimini my husband and I build last winter.

I feel like there is a sweet spot where simpler alternators are better: the overlap between an energy-efficient boat, and renewable supply covering all but a few occasions of peak usage (windlass, power tools).
R. Williams 12-Apr-2018 12:55
Excellent! Clear. Concise. Comprehensive. Thanks!
Rikds 28-Feb-2018 18:00
This is an excellent system. Only difference with me is that I glass (and epoxy) over the backing plate having carefully bevelled the edges. This adds bonding surface area. Why don't all boat builders do this? It is so much better!
Viddix 28-Oct-2017 17:46
What happens if a small bladder, balloon, seals the air vent of a tank containing fuel? Wouldn't that stop fresh air intake and still allow for tank content expansion?
Steve 29-Jul-2017 14:22
Any thoughts on the Trimetric monitor? In the RV community it is regarded as the gold standard of battery monitoring.
Steve W. 18-Jul-2017 23:05
I've heard somewhere that it is preferred to have the 2 clamps placed where the screws are opposite of each other while on the hose, and then they tighten from opposite directions. Does this matter?
Maureen 14-Jul-2017 18:42
Thank you so much for your detailed advice. Just sent a donation.
Eric Middlebrook 05-Jun-2017 02:23
I have one other prevent corrosion development(even after shrink wrapping the cable at the terminal junction) can flux be placed on the cable end prior to crimping and wrapping, even though soldering is NOT occurring, to prevent oxidation from occuring?

Thank you for your guidance.
Eric Middlebrook 05-Jun-2017 02:05
Thank you so much for clarifying proper crimping for cables. I was going to solder then crimp. That is no longer going to be my technique, double crimping and rounding my crimp with my FTZ that I purchased is the way to go!
Hal 29-May-2017 00:32
Fantastic sute. Question as to mooring pendant sizing. I have a 1990 Morgan 44. About 28000 lbs. (by have
I mean we are buying) i ordered 1" maxi moor ii. They appear to be huge. I will be in a faily open exposure all season. No way they will gut through cleats. Only around. Too big? Should indown suze? Unfortunately I do not have the boat yet and as a result I am on able to test them out to see how well they fit.
John 27-May-2017 14:23
Love this site. Thank you for the work you've put into it. I am trying to figure out whether I need to use a 1,000amp shunt rather than the 500 amp shunt supplied, when installing a Victron 700 to monitor a 900ah Li ion battery bank? Many thanks!
alessandro contardi 11-Mar-2017 10:46
i amo working on a D-2 55 Volvo penta and its sea water pump Jonshon, ; i cannot find SEA SEAL , not provided anymore from Volvo service; it is tha same of yours, where is it possible to buy? thks in advance regars.
Alex 04-Jan-2017 18:15
Another tip when installing the new bearing is to put it in the freezer for a few hours beforehand. It will shrink down a a micron or so and make getting it started pressed into place a bit easier easier.
Marc Dacey 03-Dec-2016 17:50
Do you find that there's any point in putting in an adjustable tensioner bolt on a bracket or a small turnbuckle? I've seen this as a retrofit. Of course, do it right and the bracket rarely needs adjustment, I supppose.
Brian McMahon 15-Oct-2016 16:23
Thank you for a great site. Just used it to convert my alternator to external regulation. Made the job and quick and easy. Do you ever get on the sailnet forum? Just wondering. Your thoroughness reminds me of someone I read often there. Really didn't know what is customary to donate. Hope $15 is about right.
michael 20-Sep-2016 19:27
Hi RC, thanks for the article and great info. What battery type setting is appropriate for the TPPL Odyssey batteries? Thanks for the help!
Guillermo van Wielink 17-May-2016 17:14
Were can I buy a Rebuilt heat exchanger ??
Guy Delorme 27-Mar-2016 19:10
Very helpful thank you and I would suggest putting a donation link on every page.
Rick H 25-Mar-2016 16:45
Whats your opinion regarding Marelon thru hulls and valves?
Craig Deslaurier 07-Apr-2015 00:35
Thank you for a most excellent dialogue on quality and how to maintain it. I just bought a 79 Pearson and need to do this. Now I'll try to determine if I have Spartan or WC .
Ted 06-Apr-2015 01:53
Just serviced 3 Spartan seacocks this weekend thanks to your great how-to!

Question: With the Spartan tapered cone seacocks, any reason why I can't install the handle on the opposite side when I re-assemble the seacock? Reason being, its tight access and would be much easier to have the jam and flange nut on the side closest to me to adjust.

Guest 16-Mar-2015 17:42
Can I use 2 Duracell GC2 batteries connected in series as a starting bank for my Cummins
6BTA,5.9 engine ? I think CCA for this battery is 680 - enough to crank diesel engine ??

Thank you
Ron Turnow 11-Feb-2015 20:01
I love your work! Thank you so much! You have no peers.
George Giggey 29-Jan-2015 12:19
I was surprised to find that there are so few US flooded lead/acid 12V battery manufacturers and how much relabeling that goes on. I am led to believe that Johnson Controls, Exide, and Deka control the most of the market. Have you found any data on the actual percentage of the market that each controls and the selling brands associated with each of these major manufacturers? I have had good luck with Delco and Sears deep cycling batteries and believe that both brands are sourced from Johnson Controls. Do you think that the major selling brands switch manufacturing sources on whim or price or do they stick with their trusted suppliers?
Compass Marine How To28-Jan-2015 16:16

Look for an article in Practical Sailor later this year. It will include PSOC testing (partial state of charge operation) of the new Firefly Oasis marine version as well as other AGM batteries..
sailerhlf 24-Jan-2015 23:48
Have you ever tested the new 3HD2 that Cat started to develop and (go to)http--fireflyinternationale brought to market? The boating community needs verification of this new led acid battery.
Lee 22-Nov-2014 22:14
Thank you for the step by step instructions...Do the head to exhaust manifold gaskets or the rear manifold gasket need any type of sealants?
Guest 13-Nov-2014 06:36
I wish they had found a way to design a female cord-mounted end with some sort of self-actuating waterproof cover so that when it falls in the water you don't end up with a connector full of saltwater.
Don Joyce 11-Nov-2014 23:38
I've found the best mechanical/electric gauges are made by Rochester Gauges in Dallas. Moeller etc. use their components if they don't simply relabel them entirely. You don't get the el-cheapo aluminium float arms that you get with Moeller. Worth checking out. I got gauges with the ASE 5-bolt pattern for both fuel and water. (the Moeller gauges would simply dissolve)
Nico 04-Oct-2014 09:27
I discovered your site as, having just re-engined my boat, I want to upgrade the batteries, charging, monitoring and add solar panels.
I have found your information and explanations extremely helpful and valuable. Thanks very, very much.
I was already considering a Smartguage but, as I am located in UK, I will buy it locally but have provided a donation instead. Thanks again !
Richard Ross 01-May-2014 16:26
Certainly the SmartPlug is an improvement over the old, but would a SAE J1772 plug be even better. This is the plug used to recharge electric autos at 30Amps. I have never seen one on a boat.
Freddie Estremera 01-Apr-2014 01:09
As always Mainsail, thanks again for your thorough input on this...I always recommend you to others and have followed many of your tips while working on my old boat, a Tartan 27 and also will implement these theories on my new boat, a Tartan 34c!
Robert Murdoch 05-Jan-2013 16:05
Great site, I hope my donation as small as it was helps, I will donate more when I do one of the project outlined on your site.

Sites like yours are great for content and detail you will never seem to find on a commercial site.

Nice work.

Robert Murdoch
Captain of "Old Flat Top" Cal 28
Toronto, Ontario