Kia orana (may you live long) from the Cook Islands! |
Layover in Tahiti |
Faaa airport in Papeete, Tahiti |
Dan laying over |
Thirteen hours from LAX we arrive to the Cooks! |
Deplaning in Rarotonga, Cook Islands |
Dan got eied (they can't be bothered with the "L" here) |
Madi got eied, too |
RAR airport. Slightly bigger than SBA |
Home for the next week: Rarotonga Beach Bungalows |
A totara (puffer fish) guarding the Totara Lounge |
Decor in the Totara lounge |
Tupa (crab) bungalow |
Our outside seating area |
Our lounge chair area |
Our porch |
Our breakfast spot |
Our side garden |
Inside Tupa bungalow |
Inside Tupa bungalow |
Inside Tupa bungalow |
Inside Tupa bungalow |
Paddles everywhere |
Inside Tupa bungalow |
Satellite TV with 3 channels! Serious, the locals were jealous |
Inside Tupa bungalow |
The coolest shower rack in the world |
Shh...sneaking up on Dan in the garden shower |
Our garden shower |
Our garden shower |
Our garden shower |
The view from our porch |
The beach outside Raro Beach Bungalows |
View to the left |
More view to the left |
View to the right |
Holding hands over a fallen coconut |
Offshore coral keeps the waves offshore |
Etu moana (blue starfish) |
Pretty flowers |
M is for marriage |
More beautiful beach as we trek eastward |
Roughing it |
Matu rori (sea cucumber). Supposedly the locals squeeze the raw innards out and eat 'em. Ick. |
Pretty neighboring bungalows |
Dan gets his feet wet |
More beautiful coastline |
More pretty flowers |
And more beautiful coastline |
Our view all afternoon as we laze on the beach |
Waiting for the hourly clockwise Raro by Night bus |
Island night at Staircase |
Demonstration of local dances |
Pawpaw for breakfast |
Pawpaw = papaya and it's yummy! |
Another day, another day at the beach |
Preparing to lounge |
First, a quick swim |
The water is perfect! |
Dan tries out the kayak |
Off he goes... |
And keeps going... |
And going (I can't even see him anymore)... |
All the way to the wave break! |
Finally, Dan heads back for shore |
Dan heads back for shore |
Dan makes it back to shore |
Phew |
A huge etu moana! |
The Avarua government building |
There's even a 3-screen movie theater. Now playing: Date Movie and Ice Age 2 |
First infamous short-legged dog sighting |
Canoe hangar |
Trader Jack's, owned by Avarua harbour master J.H. Cooper - "The Trader" |
Umm...I think this is the extent of the Raro harbor! |
Dan on the deck of Trader Jack's |
Star fruit (not as tasty as pawpaw) |
5:23 pm - two sets of canoers head out clockwise |
More canoers head out to catch the sunset |
Off he goes |
Our first Raro sunset (we were on the wrong side of the island last night) |
Sunset |
Sunset |
Sunset |
Kids playing on a Survivor challenge platform |
Sunset |
Sunset |
Sunset |
Sunset |
6:11 pm - the canoers return from the other direction |
That's just 48 minutes to circle the island |
Sunset |
Sunset |
Sunset |
Sunset |
Seafood pizza: smoked fish, calamari, shrimp, mussels (my first and second-to-last), shredded crab, and fish pieces...yum! |
Lucky's cat hanging out on our porch...there are way more dogs than cats on this island |
Ah...*this* is the harbor |
The port |
The port |
Port Authority |
Ministry of Transport |
Containers |
Miss Mataroa |
A huge container ship arrives for the day |
Cruise ship by the 1916 wreck of the SS Maitai |
This cruise comes through every two weeks...next stop Bora Bora! |
Punanga Nui Saturday morning market |
The market |
The market |
August 21, 1998 - To commemorate the opening of the Punanga Nui by the New Zealand high commissioner to the Cook Islands |
In appreciation of Ausaid, the People's Republic of China, and the Catholic Commission for Justice and Development |
Coconut rolls...yum! |
Cook-style coffee sleeve |
Big and beautiful |
Shorty dog at the market |
Fresh fish (the branch is to swat the flies away) |
White hibiscus |
Tangaroa, the Polynesian icon of the sea and fertility (view him from the front to see why!) |
Another shorty dog |
Small dogs need a small SPCA |
Meatco, for all your meat needs |
Seven-in-one coconut tree...found on the island of Takutea and replanted here |
Another shorty dog |
Dan looking pious in front of CICC (Cook Islands Christian Church) |
Super old tombstones at CICC |
Super old tombstones at CICC |
CICC is made entirely of coral |
Cycling to the Cooks vs. Tonga rugby game |
Cycling to the Cooks vs. Tonga rugby game |
Why the chicken crossed the road: to escape the 100,000 annoying roosters in the yard |
Tereora Stadium |
The opening kiddie game |
The Cook Islanders take the field to practice |
Tonga takes the practice field...check out those crazy coaches' outfits |
Tonga warming up |
A helicopter arrives |
This is the first time a helicopter has landed in the stadium |
Cargo onboard: the prime minister and Miss Cook Islands 2006 |
The PM and Miss CI both live in Rarotonga, but I guess they need to arrive in style |
The helicopter lands |
The prime minister deplanes (decopters?) |
The PM is greeted by a crazy man |
Miss CI 2006 deplanes |
She and her posse join the party |
Off goes the helicopter |
The PM and Miss CI don't get to leave by copter |
Away she goes... |
A prayer for the home team and a curse on the visiting team |
Everyone lines up for the national anthems |
Team Cook Islands |
Team Tonga |
Team hug |
Tonga's haka (war dance thingy) |
Our haka is better (except for that dude who fell down) |
Game on! |
The score is about 30 to 3, Tonga :( |
Maybe Peter Dean's South Pacific doppelganger can save the day |
SP PD prepares to sub in |
And he's in...time to save the day! |
Cooks get the ball back |
The stands are packed |
Pancakes with ice cream and chocolate sauce...the perfect rugby snack |
The drum section (they drum for every score) |
I just love those Tonga coach outfits |
So chic |
More rugby |
More rugby |
More rugby |
More rugby |
More rugby |
Crazy tattoos...must be from New Zealand |
And it's over...77 Tonga, 10 Cook Islands |
A final prayer |
Miss Cook Islands 2006 stuck it out 'till the bitter end |
Shorty dog outside the game |
Uh oh...clouds rolling in |
But it's still nice out |
It's getting pretty stormy |
Rainy day means time to crack the complimentary champagne |
Mimosas on the porch |
And World Cup on the TV! |
Sunday night BBQ at the Pawpaw Patch |
Cloudy, but not rainy today |
Cloudy, but still beautiful |
Definitely walking weather |
Sea bird. I dunno what it is, but I'm glad it's anything but a rooster |
Shells today, snacks and jewellery tomorrow |
Oh neat: normal-legged dogs |
After a quick fight over me, I get to keep the tan one for the walk |
Walking toward Muri beach |
Muri beach |
More Muri beach |
A motu offshore |
Coral is pretty, but you can't take it from the beach |
Same goes for shells |
Few cows on the island means milk comes in cans |
Tramping along Muri beach |
Uh oh - two new normal-legged dogs |
Taakoka motu |
My dog meets the new dogs |
And the new dogs battle it out |
My dog doesn't participate |
A perfect chance for me to escape |
Sheesh...as soon as I ditch the dogs, I collect two new ones. Where are all these big dogs coming from? |
And then as soon as I pawn the new dogs off on an unsuspecting New Zealander, two more approach! |
The dogs go in search of lunch |
The dogs look for fish |
No luck so far |
Finally, my moment to escape |
One tracked me down to the bungalow |
One bookstore on the island |
Those short legs get tired quickly! |
Lunch at Whatever |
Mini (yeah, right) fish burger...yum |
The cutest shorty dog yet |
He's running away quickly, but it's hard to tell with those tiny legs! |
Dan's favorite rock face |
I think this means "keep left, you dummy" |
Look at the size of that beer |
"A curse upon the brother of all who photograph this site"...oops, sorry Al! |
I never found out what a judder bar is |
Neighboring city of Ngatangi'ia...we stayed in Titikaveka |
Another shy shorty... |
...aptly escaping down Smurf street |
Super brown...for your shopping needs of any color |
Tangaroa outside the Perfume Factory |
Cute public restrooms (well, cute on the outside at least) |
Fish and chips...yum |
FBI fish and chips |
The failed Sheraton resort in Vaimaanga that temporarily bankrupted the islands |
Drying out after a rainy bike ride |
Island night at Edgewater |
Jerri and Chet and a butter sculpture |
Hey, that's the same MC from the Staircase island night |
Honeymooners who were too slow to hide are called up on stage |
Island night |
Island night |
Island night |
Island night |
Island night |
Sunrise...and clear skies! |
Sunrise...and clear skies! |
House of the queen's rep |
House of the queen's rep |
The queen's rep is conveniently next door to paintball |
Takitumu conservation area |
Apparently conservation does not start at home here (house behind the Takitumu sign) |
Wac that child (along with "_low down" and "_c_ool ahead") |
Big J's |
Accommodations for every budget! |
Hi puppy! This explains all the tall dogs...they're breeding |
CICC in Titikaveka |
CICC in Titikaveka |
I think this is a solar water heater...all the houses have 'em |
Sun is almost up and the sky's still looking clear! |
Almost time to leave Raro...goodbye construction! |
One last visit to our beach |
Dan recycling |
Back at the airport, at the only gate |
How cute is the hand-written boarding pass? |
Dan boarding the Saab to Aitutaki atoll |
Last glimpse of Rarotonga |
Last look at the needle |
So long Raro |
First glimpse of Aitutaki |
So far, no Survivors in sight |
Look at that blue water! |
The left side of the island |
The right side of the island |
Not much to it! |
Coming in for our landing |
View over Aitutaki |
Talk about a teeny airport! |
Aitutaki airport |
Airport entertainment |
Welcome to Aitutaki |
Etu Moana Boutique Beach Villas |
View of Etu Moana from the beach |
Etu Moana |
Welcome to Villa (old no.) 7 |
Lovey shows us villa 7 |
Greeted with eis and coconut milk |
Relaxing on the porch |
Here's the pool |
Honeymoon bungalow apparently means no sitting room |
And only 2 channels on this island, but we'll still get the World Cup |
Inside old no. 7 |
Inside old no. 7 |
Inside old no. 7 |
Dan in the garden shower |
Painting by local artist |
The porch |
The porch |
I wish these pesky birds would eat more mosquitos...they're both EVERYWHERE |
Pool and poolside bar |
*Happy* Tangaroa guarding the poolside honesty bar |
View to the pool and beach |
View to the pool and beach |
Here's where we'll spend the afternoon |
Local hair |
Local hair |
This island is teeming with cats...probably due to the lack of dogs |
I think the lack of dogs is also why there are so many icky matu rori here |
Dinner at Cafe Tupuna...the best food the whole trip |
Schmoopies at Cafe Tupuna |
Dan chilling at our beach |
The perfect spot for morning coffee |
The water is great! |
Dan starts up the VL100T-3 for our around-the-island tour |
Due to Survivor, much of the island is off limits...stupid Survivor |
One of the many many maps showing the locals where they're not allowed, thanks to Survivor |
The footbridge to the private motu Akitua was washed away in February |
The Lagoon Resort is the only thing on Akitua |
View of the southside of the atoll from O'otu beach |
View of Akitua from O'otu beach |
More view of Akitua from O'otu beach |
Dan on O'otu beach |
Madi on O'otu beach |
Dan looking fly with motu 'Angari in the background |
Bishops has been completely commandeered by Survivor so we're waiting to find out who will take us on our lagoon cruise |
Back onboard for the (partial) around-the-island tour |
There's the whole airport...no tower or nuthin! |
Dan "opens her up" to 60 km/hr...that's fast here! |
CICC in Arutanga |
This CICC is the first church in the Cooks, from 1828 |
Tall ship offshore |
The harbor |
Port authority "building" |
Hi Gina! |
Goats really know how to make you feel like popular |
Tautu wharf |
Exploring the motu-ette off Tautu wharf |
Exploring the motu-ette off Tautu wharf |
Exploring the motu-ette off Tautu wharf |
Hike to the top of Maungapu |
Maungapu is the highest point on the island, but is only 124 meters up |
View from the top of Maungapu |
View from the top of Maungapu |
View from the top of Maungapu |
View from the top of Maungapu |
View from the top of Maungapu |
Heading back down to do more tramping |
View from the ridgeline tramping track |
View from the ridgeline tramping track |
View from the ridgeline tramping track |
View back up Maungapu |
View from the water tower |
View down to Arutanga (it's the biggest village on the island, but it's small!) |
View from the water tower |
View from the water tower |
Cute! Baby goats |
I no longer feel like a goat rockstar |
Back to O'otu beach |
Hanging at Samade on the Beach |
Sitting on a sand bar |
Time for lunch! |
Fish burgers (yet again) at Samade |
Samade certainly is right on the beach |
Starting our kayak trip south towards motu Akitua |
After crashing into the Lagoon Resort bungalows for a closer look, I've determined they are not glass bottomed |
Checking out motu 'Angarei |
Dan snorkelling off 'Angarei |
Next stop motu Ee |
Ee is aawesome |
View of motu Mangere from Ee |
View along the length of Ee |
View along the length of Ee |
View of Ee |
So that's where baby palm trees come from |
Checking out the wave break past Mangere diaster strikes as Madi capsizes |
View of wave break past Mangere |
Watching the sunset back at Samade |
The beach is like one big kitty litter box |
Dan (and the obligatory cat) in the sunset |
Dinner at Te Vaka is tainted by all the Survivor crew a-holes hanging around on their day off |
Lagoon cruise aboard the Titi Ai Tonga, hosted by Prince something-or-other |
Cruising out towards Honeymoon Island and Maina. One foot Island is off limits thanks to dumb Survivor...wah |
Madi sampling sea grapes...they're salty and awful |
Lunch is BBQed tuna. Oh, and there's a bar onboard, too. Yay! |
The prince, Captain Wonderful and Captain Cook ("he's the captain and the cook") provide lunchtime entertainment |
Crusing to Honeymoon Island |
The Titi Ai Tonga |
Under a wedding arch on Honeymoon Island |
Rare baby red-tailed tropic-bird on Honeymoon Island |
Red-tailed tropic-birds on Honeymoon Island |
View of Maina from Honeymoon Island |
View of Maina from Honeymoon Island |
Our footprints |
Approaching Maina |
Frigate birds above Maina (unfortunately they signify a storm is coming) |
Dan on Maina |
View of Honeymoon Island from Maina |
Rare baby red-tailed tropic-bird on Maina |
View of Honeymoon Island from Maina |
Coconut demonstration |
Dan and the prince demonstrate proper pareu technique |
Parachute pants...sexy! |
Preparing to demonstrate the haka |
Wait...first the prince has to hide a coconut in Dan's pants |
Dancing the haka |
Dancing the haka |
Dancing the haka |
The Survivor tribal council spanish galleon on Aitutaki (far left) |
Oh, it's the Bounty...that makes more sense |
There's no way they canoe from One Foot Island to Aitutaki...I bet TV will make it seem like they do, though |
Survivor crew camp...400 Americans, New Zealanders and a few locals have invaded |
Boats for some Survivor challenge |
Returning to the harbor |
The Heineken Store...selling way more than just Heineken |
The Heineken Store...selling way more than just Heineken |
Air Rarotonga city ticket office...looks like the agent is on break |
Maina Traders Superstore...the Wal-Mart of Aitutaki (OK, not quite) |
Island night at the Pacific Resort |
Island night at the Pacific Resort |
Island night at the Pacific Resort |
Driving by Cafe Tupuna |
Driving around the island |
Orongo Centre...the center of Arutanga. This is the center of town, if you can believe it |
Mangrove tree? |
Relaxing in a hammock |
History lesson: vehicle left behind by the US during WW2 when they built the old runway |
Giant banyan tree |
Giant banyan tree |
Last look at the beach |
Dan tries out the pool |
Back to Raro |
Welcome back to Rarotonga |