Day 7 is a rest day for acclimatisation. But rest day is a misnomer as the advice is to climb high and come back down to sleep. So we're up early. So early that we have to wake the cook to make us breakfast, and then we're heading straight up the valley sides to the fabled Ice Lake. Anika sets a hard pace and I'm struggling at the rear. Early mornings and uphills are not my best - and there are plenty more in the days that follow.