Going ashore on the Aurora Expeditions is an adventure, involving lifejackets, waterproof trousers, gumboots, a steep gangway, a particular way of getting into a Zodiac (a glorified rubber dinghy with a big outboard motor) for a ride to a landing which might be a rocky beach or a concrete ramp or a steel ladder, then maybe a bit of walking up a steep hill. It's all fun and worth while, but the feeling of achievement is dimmed somewhat when you then meet a crowd of tourists in their best clothes who have arrived at the same place by bus.

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