When there is no mist, there are wonderful views from here, we were told. Without the views,
it is an ugly place: It has been fought over in every war. There are gates, check-points and
fortifications built by all the protagonists, stone and concrete in various stages of decay.
Then memorials, electricity pylons and toilets have been added to the mess. And behind me where
I took this picture, a long row of ramshackle shops selling postcards, souvenirs, and everything
we didn't want, with persistent salespeople who were not deterred even by closed car windows.