Savannaket, long a sleepy indochinese trading outpost along the Mekong, opposite North-eastern Thailand, had been left pretty much as it stood during the french protectorate era until last year, when a new and gigantic "friendship" bridge neared completion, courtesy of australian-japanese partnership. This year, as I returned, the old river crossing is reserved to Lao nationals only, even thai tourists must use the bridge.

So recent a change it is, very little has happened yet, the pace of life is still leisurely, the old french provincial architectural style of houses and buildings still intrinsecally part of what makes the charm of Laotian towns for many visitors. Mopeds are now ubiquitous, next to bicycles, but far outnumbering cars, save big trucks and VIP's SUVs. The city is bound to change, lose some of its old charm as the bridge will bring more tourism and trade, cash will flow in but for now, you can in many ways feel as if going back in time, walking around.