"The Tiber got its name from Tiberinus, Etruscan king of Alba Longa, the mythical city that pre-existed on its banks, before Romulus and Remus founded Rome.
The upper Tiber River, approximately 250 miles north of Rome and 60 miles from Perugia, is a strictly no-kill tail water fishery with a thriving, self sustaining population of trout and grayling. Trout average between 10 and 15 inches, grayling 10 to 12, even though many larger fish are often spotted, and some of them caught."

"Forming an expanse of gentle pastoral countryside and high mountain wilderness, the picturesque region of Umbria has been affectionately dubbed the “Green Heart of Italy.” The Valnerina lies in a beautiful remote part of Umbria, approached only by winding roads through thick wooded hills dotted with little hamlets. A few of these villages date back to the 11th century B.C. when the Umbri people dominated and cultivated the rugged countryside. Less known than their counterparts, the Etruscans who lived west of the Tiber River, the Umbri built large monolithic walls that still survive today. During the Monastic period, this region of Italy supplied Christianity with some of its most revered saints, as well as the less famous men and women who chose the more simple, contemplative life that Umbria continues to encourage."

Amidst all this history, I pursue the brown trout and grayling of the Tiber, under the guidance of Gianluca Orselli, a computer specialist with EI Lilly by trade, and a passionate flyfisher by avocation. The friendly, English-speaking Luca and two partners own flyfishingitaly.com, an outfitting service based in Florence. I fish with him for two days, the first including my daughter Mackenzie and her partner Greg, both of whom are absolute beginner fly fishers. Luca gets them both into fish in due course, and I land eight or ten smallish specimens in a short day, altho I also break off what looked to have been an eighteen inch or so trout. The next day, I land twenty or more fish, including a couple of respectable size. Luca demonstrates the local short line nymphing technique, which emphasizes the maintenance of a direct feel for the flies; ideally one casts no more than a couple of feet of line, plus leader. The Upper Tiber (known in Italy as the Tevere River) is small, clear and easily wadeable. It is popular with locals for swimming and sunbathing (I encounter a very attractive topless sunbather on day one!), as well as for fishing. Licencing is a seemingly complicated affair, with daily permits being required from a local club that administers the process. The club also will provide a hearty bagged lunch, and a shot of espresso before heading out for the day. This little stream ultimately becomes quite large (Bow River size) and is the same Tiber River that flows through Rome.