Tibet, oh Tibet, a place that I have been longing to go since year 2000. Claimed roof of the world with average altitude of 3000m, some of world tallest snowcapped mountains and rich mysterious culture of Tibetans are the main attractions to me. However, Tibet Autonomy Region is the most political sensitive region in China. Foreigners are required to pre-apply visiting permit and hire a local tour guide with pre-arranged itinerary. And some places are off limit to foreigner likes Yurlung Tsangpo Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world. Nevertheless, these should not deter anyone from visiting Tibet. The only worry I had was high altitude sickness (HAS). To minimize impact of HAS, we chose to go by train and return by airplane.
Expecting mainly natural landscaping and cultural shots, gears I brought along were:
Canon 5DMKII
Canon 17-40 F4
Canon 24-105 F4 IS (my most used lens)
Canon 135 F2 (least used lens)
Spare batteries and battery charger
CPL, plenty of CF cards and Epson P5000 storage
Of course, last but not least, my old trusty Velbon Carmag640 tripod attached with Markin M10 ball head. Later I regret did not bring 70-200 zoom.
Day 1-3 (27-29 Aug.’10 Wuxi to Lhasa)
I headed to Wuxi train station after work. Train from Wuxi departed at 2040 hour and to Lhasa would take 48 hours. I was wondering how I was going to spend that many hours in a train. However, thought of I would ride on the famous and world highest Qinghai-Tibet railway got me excited (for a while). Each cart was equipped with many oxygen supply outlets. But only when train reached somewhere between Qinghai and Tibet the oxygen was released. This certainly eliminated the effect of HAS on me. The scenic along the way was not as excited as I would expect. It rained most of the time when we arrived in Tibet Autonomy Region. Anyhow I snapped a few photos and videos.
View From Train Somewhere in Tibet
Precisely after 48 hours, the train finally pulled into Lhasa train station at 2045 on the third day. It was raining season at this time. We met our Tibetan tour guide and proceeded to hostel shortly. Four of us hired a van (should have hired 4x4 instead) for better flexibility. Be aware that even though officially Lhasa follows Beijing time, its time zone was actually two hours behind. Sun did not rise until 0730 and did not set until 1930 (during autumn).
Day 4 (30 Aug.’10 Lhasa)
Lhasa situated at 3700m above sea level. We had been advised to “rest” in Lhasa on the first day to get our body adjusted to high altitude, so we did just that. Plan for that day was visiting Jokhang Monastery and Potala Palace.
We met up with our tour guide in the morning and headed straight to Jokhang Monastery. The monastery was a short distance walk from Barkhor Street where we were dropped off. Along the street were hawkers and shops selling all sorts of souvenirs. But I found their windows were catchier.
Barkhor Street View, Lhasa
Jokhang Monastery was first constructed by King Songsten Gampo in ~645 to celebrate his marriage with Chinese Tang Dynasty princess Wen Cheng, who was a Buddhist. Tibetans regarded this monastery as the most sacred and important temple. It was also an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many pilgrims trekked from all over Tibet, some for months to worship here.
Jokhang Monastery
Once entered the monastery, immediately I could feel like I was walking into an ancient temple (indeed I was). Although many parts of the building had been restored, the dark interior, many pilgrims in their traditional Tibetan outfit and sculptures of Buddhists mixing with overwhelming yak butter smell really gave me no sense of modern world. However, only certain sections inside this monastery were opened for visitors. And photography was prohibited inside monastery.
Worshipers In Prostration Outside Jokhang Monastery
I could not imagine people came to Tibet without paying a visit to the famous Potala Palace. This building was first built in seventh century AD and had been extended since until its massive size today. I had seen many photos of Potala Palace in the past but nothing could compare the actual wonder that stood high up on the hill overlooking this holy land.
Walking up to the entrance might post a little challenge to some at this high altitude. But you eventually got there. Photography was also prohibited in most areas inside this palace. Some areas required paying fee for taking photo (very expensive). Visitors were allowed only one hour to complete the designated route. I would say the given time was severely insufficient. I hardly had time to admire the beauty of its architecture. No point bringing tripod there.
Potala Palace at Night
Day 5 (31 Aug.’10 Lhasa to Nyingchi)
It was an eight hours journey from Lhasa to Nyingchi town (over 400Km away) on paved but bumpy road. Nyingchi area had an average altitude of 3000m above sea level. On the way, we ascended to highest point of 5013m at Milha Pass. That was the point I first felt the impact of high altitude after walking too fast (to capture photo). First it was heavy breathing then follow by mild headache. Luckily, the problem went away shortly. Due to its unique climate, Nyingchi contained 80% of Tibet’s forest. And many rare plants and animals could be found in this soil rich area.
A young girl hanging her prayer flags, Milha Pass
Milha Pass served as a resting point for many pilgrims, tourists and bikers. It was a quick stop so I only managed to snap some photos.
A group of pilgrims on their way to Lhasa, Milha Pass
It was late afternoon when we arrived at Nyingchi town. We took a brief tour to King of Cypress Park before checked into hotel for the night. The oldest cypress in that park was 2600 years old. This was a place I suggest to skip if you were in hurry.
One interesting notice was method used by local Police in vehicle speed control. All vehicles were compulsory to register at a checkpoint. You would be given a slip with current time. Pre-fixed travel duration was given for each destination. When you arrived at the destination, you were required to “check out” at another checkpoint. Heavy fine would be impost on those that travelled less than the pre-fixed duration.
Day 6 (01 Sept.’10 Nyingchi to Lhasa)
Woke up to another gloomy morning. It had rain last night. This weather was not a surprise during raining season. By the time we reached Lake Basumco, the park was not even opened yet. Hence, we managed to sneak in without paying entrance fee :P. Unfortunately, after waiting for an hour, there was no sign of sun breaking through the morning thick fog that curtaining distance mountain. We had to leave.
Lake Basumco in early morning
The rest of the day was pretty dull and tiring while travelling back to Lhasa on the same route. Upon arriving at Lhasa, we were greeted with bright clear sky. Hence, we determined to wait for sunset at Potala Square. And our effort paid off. A gigantic mushroom-like cloud formed at top right side of Potala Palace, gently waiting for us to photograph her before disappearing slowly into wide-open Tibet sky. We stayed for another hour to take night scene surrounding the palace. It was worth wise. I got few shots that I like.
Potala Palace (at sunset)
Day 7 (02 Sept.’10 Lhasa to Shigatse)
Destination of the day was Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet and our stop over before heading to Mt. Everest Base Camp on the next day. Distance from Lhasa was about 350Km, not to mention, another hour and hour of travelling over mountain then another mountain. By noon, we arrived at a rest area overseeing Yamdrok Lake. In front of me (actually few hundred meters down mountain below) was a fabulous shade of deep turquoise lake. Yamdrok Lake was one of four holy lakes as believed by Tibetans. I eagerly pulled out my camera and started shooting. 40 minutes later, we were on our way again.
Yamdrok Lake
About two hours later, we arrived at another rest area (altitude 5020m) that overseeing Kharola Glacier. This breathtaking glacier was very close to roadside. I was told the glacier was shrinking every year due to climate change. It had melted half way up the mountain.
Kharola Glacier
We spent a night at Shigatse; the second largest city in Tibet, but very small and less developed as compared to a district in Wuxi. Altitude here was 3836m. I had totally used to this high altitude by that time.
Day 8 (03 Sept.’10 Shigatse to Mt. Everest Base Camp)
It was another 400Km to the base camp. We left Shigatse in early morning and stopped over at Shegar, a small town ~300Km away for lunch. I observed most of local here were very tradition. While waiting for my lunch, a woman in her colorful Tibetan dress caught my attention. I immediately raised my camera and snapped her photo.
Tibetan Woman, Shegar
The last 100Km to base camp was an unpaved rugged road, which best fit for 4x4 vehicle. Nevertheless, our driver managed to navigate through this terrain with ease with his van. Needed mentioning, we were thrown around like popcorn cooking in microwave on and off over next four hours through this journey. We came across a group of school kids while passing through a village. Most of them were accustomed to visitors. I increased my ISO and shot few photos from my moving vehicle, most came out sharp.
Tibetan Students, toward Mt. Everest Base Camp
One part of the rugged road, while ascending up the mountain was the curviest road that I had ever ridden on. When reaching the top I could not help to stop my driver and took a few shots. Far in the horizon were some snowcapped mountains. But the clouds were thick and low. I could not get a complete view of the mountains. Nevertheless, what a sight to view!
Curvy Road, toward Mt. Everest Base Camp
We stopped by Rongbuk Monastery to stretch our legs but did not stay long before continued our way. When we got to base camp, it was close to 1630 hour. We should be able to see a full view of the Mt. Everest from base camp but she decided to hide behind a layer of thick cloud. At 8848m, Mt Everest (or Mt. Qomolangma in Tibetan language) was the highest mountain in the world. The only accommodation at base camp was Tibetan style tent that made of Yak fur. There were no water and electric facilities that we took for granted at home. However, there was a river nearby from melted snow but the water was too cold and milky. Temperature dropped sharply as soon as sun disappeared over the mountains. However, inside our tent was warm as summer when our host heated it up with dried cow dropping in a stove. While resting, we enjoyed few cups of nice hot milk tea served by our host.
Mt. Everest at Night
All of us had difficulty sleeping at altitude of 5100m. I developed a headache that could not go away. Hence, I took a short walk outside. Man! Up in the deep dark sky were millions and millions of sparkling stars! The cold fresh air and twinkling of million stars pretty much cure my headache, but I still could not sleep. My headache came back as soon as I lay down.
Day 9 (04 Sept.’10 Mt. Everest Base Camp to Shigatse)
The sun would not rise before 8AM. The fog was so thick that no sight of Mt. Everest could be seen. I was very disappointed at this time but still hope for the best. After 8:30AM, the fog started to disappear and by 8:50AM, my long awaited the mighty Mt. Everest gradually making her entrance; revealing her enormous snow covered body. I fired my camera shutter unstoppably. At the same time, I also took couple of video clips with my 5DMKII.
Mt. Everest in the Morning
Unwillingly, we left her behind and returned to Shigatse. The feeling of standing in front of the highest mountain was something for me to remember.
Day 10 (05 Sept.’10 Shigatse to Namtso)
Final destination for the day was Namtso Lake. Before departing Shigatse, we visited Pelkor Chode Monastery, which was built in 1418. Spending about an hour taking photo of monks, worshipers and monastery itself before we hit the road again.
Pelkor Chode Monastery
Not too far from Shigatse was another small but beautiful turquoise lake surrounded by mountains. The one captured my eyes was a castle-like ruin on a tiny island within the lake.
Ruin Within A Lake
It was raining when we approached Namtso Lake. A police stationed at ticketing office at Damshung (last town before entering Namtso Lake) warned us of potential snow at night. If it snowed, they might close down the road. Although we had flight to catch the next day, his friendly advice did not deter us from visiting our last destination in Tibet. We made the right choice as the sky cleared later that night.
Similar to Mt. Everest, the facility was down right basic except we had a proper bed and room to sleep in. Water and electricity were premium here.
Day 11 (06 Sept.’10 Namtso to Lhasa)
Situated at altitude of 4730m above sea level, Namtso Lake is the highest saltwater lake in the world. It is also one of four Tibet holy lakes, the largest lake in Tibet and second largest saltwater lake (after Qinghai Lake) in China. Surrounded by snowcapped mountains, fill with crystal clear blue water and joining distance horizon with Tibet blue sky, the scenery is both breathtaking and unforgettable.
We walked up a nearby hill at 7:30AM to wait for sunrise. The hill was not high (perhaps less than 200m) but at this altitude, I was panting half way up. Quite a few early photographers were there already. Quickly I found a spot and setup my tripod. Within 30 minutes, we were greeted with a spectacular moment of sunrise. Mind you I had seen many sunrises at many locations, but Namtso Lake’s sunrise was the most pretty that I could recall. At some point I stopped looking through my viewfinder. Instead, admired this magnificent view that nature could offer. My soul was cleansed at that very moment by Namtso Lake.
Namtso Lake, early photographer
Namtso Lake, Sunrise
As they said, all good things will come to an end. We had to leave Namtso Lake early to catch our flight. Goodbye Namtso Lake and goodbye Tibet, I would never forget the brief time I had set my insignificant footprints in this holy land.
