Beaune, France

July 13 - August 2

Hi, Everybody.

Feels like it's time for an update as I'm beginning to get the smattering of "what's happening" notes which let me know that some of you wonder where the hell I am. For those who don't wonder and find these missives tedious, do feel free to delete!

After leaving magical Yvoire of my last log, I moved on to Burgundy where I stayed for three nights at a wonderful B&B on the hillside overlooking Beaune across gorgeous sloping vineyards. On Friday morning of Bastille Day I met a very friendly retired couple from North Carolina--he a quiet, self-deprecating wine hobbyist, and she a very sweet but loudly chatty sort with a southern accent which wouldn't quit. They both kindly invited me to dinner that night.

Upon our return, our gracious host, Jean Louis, one of the sweetest men I've ever met, gave all three of us a champagne glass, and dragged us to the neighbors' to share a bottle of champagne and thank him for his display of several spraying bursts of colorful fireworks just beneath the house. We marched along behind Jean Louis as he led us in song, belting out the Marseilles as we approached the just darkened household of a baker family, the baker of whom I assumed had just retired to catch enough sleep to get up at 2 am to make all our baguettes for tomorrow morning.

Out to greet us walks a massive, chunky man with a reddish crewcut and handlebar moustache wearing nothing but tight, patterned briefs and a belly so large it hung out over his private parts. To my eyes, he was either roused from bed by Jean Louis' heartful rendition of the French anthem, or sitting there in his underwear watching TV before going to bed. All the lights were off, adding to the sense of intrusion. But soon along comes a wife, an elegant and gracious country grandmother sort with smooth blonde tresses pulled back in a loose bundle and a muted scarf tucked into a classic but very old Chanel sweater. Behind her came a young boy who behaved as if he liked that I loved his dogs but also that I'd best remember that they are HIS dogs first. In my embarrassment over the nearly naked fat man, I'd turned my attention to the two dogs, and immediately fell into Coco, a stunning malamute boy with one blue and one green eye who I let jump all over me and danced with while getting profusely kissed. Then along came the sweet black lab, Belle, who I loved up extra because she has to live in the shadow of Coco's beauty.

After doing up the champagne we bid farewells, none too soon for me.