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Kenneth MacDowell | profile | all galleries >> Other Stuff (shop/house/pets/etc.) >> diy_tinkering_place tree view | thumbnails | slideshow
HOW Kmac SETS HIS MECHANICAL TRIGGER EXTREMELY SHORT

First factor of limitation when setting a short trigger is the 3 way. The movement required to switch the air passage from the one barb to the other will determine the required distance of the trigger to move to complete a cycle. This is why my favorite 3 way is the Shocktech bomb. The Belsales Hollow Point is nice as well. While I have not used the Palmers Quick Switch, I have heard they are nice and short as well.

The other factor is a good sear/lug. If either is rounded or worn then the firing point will require more “free play” on the front end of the trigger to prevent sear/lug slippage (patent pending).

This process will change somewhat depending upon the style and brand of frame as well as how many and style of stops your frame has. Since most people have the WGP frames on their mechanical cockers, that is what I will use as a reference. (I remove the clip spring and replace the sear spring for a lighter pull as well).

TOOLS REQUIRED:
-XXX” hex wrench to fit inside grip frame -Needle Nose Pliers
-Small hex wrench to fit timing rod collar -3/8”?? hex wrench to fit lug

A few basic pieces of information:
-First, the WGP the trigger stop is located behind the grip panels below the sear. A hole will be found there with a XX size hex set screw. Another option for a trigger stop is the cam adjuster that replaces the factory safety. These are nice, but are not as adjustable as the sear set screw adjustment.

1. Lug setting.
With no gas on the marker, manually cock the marker and pull the trigger extremely slow. This can be controlled better with a finger in front of and behind the trigger so it does not snap on through. This process is to determine at point during the trigger movement the sear releases the lug thus firing the marker. Adjust the lug as so the trigger moves just a tiny bit before the lug is released. With rounded lugs this movement will need to be longer. Next, pull the cocking rod back and release it causing it to snap forward on spring power. This test is to ensure the sear will always catch the lug. If not then lower the lug (clockwise) a tiny bit.

2. Timing rod or actuator rod adjustment.
This step will require the marker to be gassed up. Remove the tiny set screw in the collar that is located toward the trigger frame. Now the collar can be turned/twisted with a pair of needle nose pliers. Turn the collar counter clockwise (making the rod longer so to speak). This will move the “cocking point” of at which point during the trigger movement the marker will cock. Move it forward a couple of turns, then pull the trigger to see how it fires. (hint: Put the bolt in upside down during adjusting and it will not use as much air and be a lot more quiet). Continue to move the “cocking point” closer toward the beginning of the trigger pull until the marker does not fire properly. Once this point has been reached, turn the collar back (clockwise) until the marker is firing properly. Replace the tiny collar set screw.

3. Trigger Pull Length Adjustment.
Begin to shorten the trigger pull by turning the hex set screw located below the sear in the grip frame clockwise. Continue to do so until the marker does not cycle properly, then back it out until it does.
Key point: If the timing rod does not fit tightly in the trigger hole/slot. Then the pull will be required to be set longer to allow for error created by the slop of the timing rod while the trigger is stationary. While they are a bit smoother, I have this issue on the following frames: Eclipse, Belsales, Jackal, and worse on Dye. I like the WGP frames because they have very tight tolerances around the actuating rod. The CCM frames are nice as well. If you prefer one of these frames I have mentioned, there is a way to hammer a timing rod flat on the short section to make up for this slop. That is a completely different, DIY article all together.

Go play paintball

Disclaimer: This is how I set my mechanical cocker trigger. If you try this on your cocker and do not have luck, that is all on you. I am not suggesting this to anyone, but this is simply how I do it.
If you know, believe, or feel I have said something incorrect, made a mistake, or simply think I am wrong. Please pm me so I can make corrections and/or explain my position.
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