Warsaw, the vibrant capital of Poland, is slowly shaking off its reputation as a bland and grey central European backwater. Although the Stalinist buildings still dot some quarters, the city is undergoing profound changes in its landscape, with avant-garde architecture springing up along major arteries. One should bear in mind that most of the city was flattened during World War II. The old town, or stare measto, which was restored to its former glory in the 70s, is trully a sparkling jewel in the city center. The city also has a very efficient public transport system. To me, however, what distingues it from other EU capitals is the presence of the old buildings of the communist era, symbolized by the Palace of Culture and Science. For a foreign tourist, no matter what opinion one mights hold of that period of the history, its architectural legacy is what captures one's attention on his or her first trip there. Sadly, with the relentless march of history, I am afraid it will soon all be gone.