Like much of Italy, Lucca has a history of domination by a long list of invaders and rulers: Romans, Ostrogoths, Lombards, Franks, Verona's Scaligeri, Florence, Napoleon (who gave it to his sister Elisa Baciocchi), and the House of Bourbon. Through it all, Lucca managed to build a beautiful city that played a prominent part in the history of architecture from the Lombard period onward. Although its early medieval churches, partly built with ancient material, were altered and restored in the 12th century, the churches you see today are among the most beautiful in Tuscany. Walk the encircling walls for an overview, then settle in to enjoy one of Italy's most endearing small cities