The beginnings of summer alpinism go back to the middle of the 19th century. The mountain village of Pontresina located in the centre of the Bernina Massif was predestined to become a centre for summer mountaineers. The mountains on the right side of the valley around Piz Alv, Piz Languard and Las Sours had become the preserve of hunters at an early stage. Now the focus was on the truly high mountains.
After the eastern summit of Palü was conquered in 1835 by Oswald Heer, Meuli and Alexander Flury under the leadership of Johann Madutz (Gian Marchet Colani is also thought to have accompanied them), the alpinist, topographer and later forestry inspector Johann Coaz succeeded in conquering Piz Bernina (4049 m) for the first time in 1850. With the exception of Piz Roseg, which was first conquered by Englishmen A. W. Moore and Horace Walker with their guide from Meiringen Jakob Anderegg, first ascents were made almost exclusively by local inhabitants, or in the leadership of local mountain guides.