Capitol Peak will sharpen your focus and concentration skills. The fun begins after the most-noted "Knife Edge" ridge, a 100' length of good solid rock, with 2,000' of exposure on both sides, that must be traversed to reach the summit. Maybe a stopper for the inexperienced Fourteener climber, but it's what follows the ridge that will put you in a zen-like zone of focus. You can checkout my team member's impressions of this climb on this link.

One of Colorado's toughest Fourteeners to climb, it's massive trapezoidal shape can be seen from the Capitol Creek trailhead. Said to resemble the US Capitol building, it was named by the Hayden Survey, but never climbed. Capitol's loose rock above the "Knife Edge", is typical for other peaks in the Elk Range, such as the Maroon Bells, and Pyramid.

Before you reach the "Knife Edge", you'll will have to decide whether to climb K2's (13,664') summit, or contour around the N'ly slope. Should you plan to summit K2, a Class-4 move or two will be required. The climb is short, and it is worth the effort. You'll get some great views of Capitol, as well as the "Knife Edge".

You'll reach the Knife Edge shortly after descending from K2. Your choice of traverse is up to you. I've seen some scoot on their butts, others hang on the edge, and friction climb with their feet. And I've seen others walk across the edge. Your skill and confidence will determine what's best for you.

Once across the "Knife Edge" the fun begins. Route finding is important. Look for the cairns, and stay high when crossing the gully on the east side below Capitol's summit. I've seen climbers knock rocks loose, and watch them ricochet down the gully like a pin-ball. I can't emphasize enough to stay high on the good rock when crossing the gully.

Once across the gully, the summit is a short climb to the top. We chose to do the ridge (good rock), but you can choose other routes as well. There are many options to the summit.

But once on the summit, you'll enjoy views of Pyramid, the Maroon Bells, and other peaks in the Elks Range. Keep an eye on the weather, and enjoy the rewards of standing on one of the toughest fourteeners in Colorado!

Tips: Keep an eye on the weather...."off the summit by noon" means back at the saddle by noon!
Stay high on the gully crossing, on the E'ly side of Capitols summit.
You can view an excellent detailed route description with photos here.