We were certainly aware of the U.S. military's presence on Vieques from the coverage given to the massive protests in 2003. More than half of the island is still off limits, but is now under the control of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, which is working with the government of Puerto Rico to clear unexploded ordnance and decontaminate its residue of depleted uranium (thanks, U.S. Navy).

This grim description, coupled with an overemphasis in guidebooks on petty theft, foretells nothing of the island's intense beauty. Geologically related to the nearby Virgin Islands, Vieques is lush, fairly mountainous, populated by locals, by escapees from Puerto Rico, by even farther-flung escapees from mainland U.S.A. and by a rich assortment of wild horses.

Its two main towns -- larger, lively Isabel Segunda on the north coast, and smaller, laid-back Esperanza on the south -- are linked by narrow, superbly asphalted roads (thanks, U.S. Navy). Roads to the magnificent beaches are uniformly dirt, with massive rainwater pools, and demand the use of a jeep.

As usual, we aimed to curb the number of photos we put up here, and as usual, we failed. Basically, we prefer to provide a more satisfying taste of a destination than can be transmitted by a handful of the best shots.