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Jim Markowich | profile | all galleries >> Society Islands (April-May 2004) >> Moorea (May 5-8, 2004) tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

Moorea (May 5-8, 2004)

Moorea is the most exceptional of the islands. Its knife-edge mountains are visually irresistable, and the twin bays on the north shore are sublime -- especially Opunohu Bay, which has almost completely escaped development. The views from Belvedere, overlooking the bays and the mountains, can knock the speech right out of your throat... or something like that.
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NW coast of Moorea near Tiahura, from the air
NW coast of Moorea near Tiahura, from the air
north coast from the air
north coast from the air
Opunohu Bay, north coast, from the air
Opunohu Bay, north coast, from the air
the Sheraton's overwater bungalows, north shore
the Sheraton's overwater bungalows, north shore
Cook's Bay, north shore, still in the airplane
Cook's Bay, north shore, still in the airplane
extraordinary mountains, from the Vee d'Opunohu road
extraordinary mountains, from the Vee d'Opunohu road
extraordinary mountains with cow
extraordinary mountains with cow
viewpoint overlooking Oponohu Bay and Mt. Rotui, from Belvedere
viewpoint overlooking Oponohu Bay and Mt. Rotui, from Belvedere
view to the west, forest trail, Belvedere
view to the west, forest trail, Belvedere
grove of huge Mape (Tahitian chestnut) trees, forest trail, Belvedere
grove of huge Mape (Tahitian chestnut) trees, forest trail, Belvedere
fallen fruit, forest trail, Belvedere
fallen fruit, forest trail, Belvedere
purple leaves of a melastoma plant
purple leaves of a melastoma plant
view to the west, trail end, Belvedere
view to the west, trail end, Belvedere
descending forest trail, Belvedere
descending forest trail, Belvedere
Nice view. Really, we edited out about thirty more like it.
Nice view. Really, we edited out about thirty more like it.
Some strange housing development?
Some strange housing development?
...clothesline out front being put to use
Our 1940's-style suite at the Motel Albert

...clothesline out front being put to use

front of our building, Motel Albert
front of our building, Motel Albert
Mt. Tearai, above our building, Motel Albert
Mt. Tearai, above our building, Motel Albert
something like the Southwest of America, with lots of vegetation
something like the Southwest of America, with lots of vegetation
moonrise over Mt. Rotui, from Cook's Bay
moonrise over Mt. Rotui, from Cook's Bay
artful moonrise over Mt. Rotui, from Cook's Bay
artful moonrise over Mt. Rotui, from Cook's Bay
Dr. Michael Poole's Dolphin & Whale Watching Expedition boat, leaving Cook's Bay
our pilot

Dr. Michael Poole's Dolphin & Whale Watching Expedition boat, leaving Cook's Bay

You only see them in the darker water within the lagoon.
We're trying to spot dolphins.

You only see them in the darker water within the lagoon.

Guests on the right are hoping to see something. Poole claims a 95% success rate in locating the beasties.
That's Dr. Poole on the left.

Guests on the right are hoping to see something. Poole claims a 95% success rate in locating the beasties.

(where you won't see a dolphin)
more turquoise lagoon water

(where you won't see a dolphin)

What's that, to port?
What's that, to port?
thirty yards out to port
a group of spinner dolphins

thirty yards out to port

Once they were found, we could just slow the boat down to a few knots, and stay among them.
They're not on the move.

Once they were found, we could just slow the boat down to a few knots, and stay among them.

a mother and calf, as we drew closer
a mother and calf, as we drew closer
The clear water made it easy to see them below the surface as well as above it.
spinner dolphins

The clear water made it easy to see them below the surface as well as above it.

The accidental horizon line shows how far from shore they were. This was in the lagoon, but very close to Taota Pass, on Moorea's west coast.
spinner dolphins

The accidental horizon line shows how far from shore they were. This was in the lagoon, but very close to Taota Pass, on Moorea's west coast.

In twos, we were allowed to sit in the bow of the boat and look over into the water there.
spinner dolphins

In twos, we were allowed to sit in the bow of the boat and look over into the water there.

Even at our slow speed, the dolphins seemed to like the pressure of the bow wave, and willingly milled about the front of the boat.
spinner dolphins

Even at our slow speed, the dolphins seemed to like the pressure of the bow wave, and willingly milled about the front of the boat.

The wavy distortions are neat...
spinner dolphins

The wavy distortions are neat...

A bunch at the bow -- the largest are about five feet long. Dr. Poole estimated that we were observing about 45 individuals.
spinner dolphins

A bunch at the bow -- the largest are about five feet long. Dr. Poole estimated that we were observing about 45 individuals.

Although they like the bow wave, they're not too keen on people. Asked how they react to people in the water, Dr. Poole said that they move off to a distance of about 200 meters, and continue making a day of it.
spinner dolphins

Although they like the bow wave, they're not too keen on people. Asked how they react to people in the water, Dr. Poole said that they move off to a distance of about 200 meters, and continue making a day of it.

Dr. Poole explained that spinner dolphin society is not based on a dominance hierarchy, as so many other animal societies are. Rather, they exist in fluid, mixed groups, maintaining social order primarily by having a lot of sexual contact with each other.
spinner dolphins

Dr. Poole explained that spinner dolphin society is not based on a dominance hierarchy, as so many other animal societies are. Rather, they exist in fluid, mixed groups, maintaining social order primarily by having a lot of sexual contact with each other.

Not one of the 45 dolphins we watched did anything lewd, though. The most entertaining thing they did was take sudden, spinning leaps out of the water.
spinner dolphins

Not one of the 45 dolphins we watched did anything lewd, though. The most entertaining thing they did was take sudden, spinning leaps out of the water.

The researchers often recognize individuals by the characteristics of their dorsal fins.
spinner dolphins

The researchers often recognize individuals by the characteristics of their dorsal fins.

Then they take a satisfying, little cruise back to land.
--

Then they take a satisfying, little cruise back to land.

...passing majestic sights...
...passing majestic sights...
...and feasting on local fruit
...and feasting on local fruit
practicing for a race
ocean canoers

practicing for a race

Oy.
Oy.
specializing in selling pareus, or wraparound skirts.
a shop called The White House

specializing in selling pareus, or wraparound skirts.

It used to be the manor house of a vanilla plantation.
White House

It used to be the manor house of a vanilla plantation.

on Motel Albert grounds
Pink waterlily

on Motel Albert grounds

Close-up of waterlily
Close-up of waterlily
a nicely designed hotel complex, currently (temporarily?) abandoned
Cook's Bay

a nicely designed hotel complex, currently (temporarily?) abandoned

at the Mobil station, Cook's Bay
pineapples, propane and dog food

at the Mobil station, Cook's Bay

The owner of the Motel Albert gave us a just-laid egg as we came back from our food-shopping at the gas station. Roosters and hens were EVERYWHERE in French Polynesia. Roosters don't just crow at dawn, either. They crow whenever the hell they feel like it, which sometimes means at any hour of the night.
fresh egg

The owner of the Motel Albert gave us a just-laid egg as we came back from our food-shopping at the gas station. Roosters and hens were EVERYWHERE in French Polynesia. Roosters don't just crow at dawn, either. They crow whenever the hell they feel like it, which sometimes means at any hour of the night.

Yes sir, we were really living it up whenever dinnertime rolled around. Nothing but the best; the most extravagant. Money was no object.
dinner

Yes sir, we were really living it up whenever dinnertime rolled around. Nothing but the best; the most extravagant. Money was no object.

pineapple plantation
pineapple plantation
inland scene
inland scene
More mountains and foliage -- sorry. We just couldn't stop.
Moorea's mountains

More mountains and foliage -- sorry. We just couldn't stop.

see why?
see why?
fallen blossom, fallen leaves...
fallen blossom, fallen leaves...
fallen leaves
fallen leaves
fallen mimosa blossom
fallen mimosa blossom
the Nikon 990 has an exceptional macro lens. It'll take sharp photos of objects as close as 2.5cm from the lens!
stamens

the Nikon 990 has an exceptional macro lens. It'll take sharp photos of objects as close as 2.5cm from the lens!

It makes you look at details that you'd ordinarily not notice.
mimosa stamens

It makes you look at details that you'd ordinarily not notice.

last of the mimosa series
mimosa up close

last of the mimosa series

rows of vanilla plants at the Lycée Professionnel Agricole -- the agricultural school halfway up to Belvedere
vanilla

rows of vanilla plants at the Lycée Professionnel Agricole -- the agricultural school halfway up to Belvedere

Lycée Professionnel Agricole
unripe oranges

Lycée Professionnel Agricole

in a pineapple plantation, Lycée Professionnel Agricole
approaching heatstroke

in a pineapple plantation, Lycée Professionnel Agricole

Lycée Professionnel Agricole
vanilla bean

Lycée Professionnel Agricole

canoe race, starting line
canoe race, starting line
our building, Motel Albert
our building, Motel Albert
yet another view of our sumptuous accommodations
Motel Albert interior

yet another view of our sumptuous accommodations

one with a Skeeter Defeater set up
beds at Albert

one with a Skeeter Defeater set up

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