While exploring the ruins of ancient Chaco, I found a small cemetery holding the grave of Richard Wetherell, a controversial figure in the history of the Southwest. He spent much of his life exploring the region, excavating sites, and selling artifacts. (Wetherell was one of the two cowboys who discovered The Cliff Palace in Mesa Verde.) Complaints from archeologists halted his activities and led to the creation of the first US law protecting antiquities. Wetherell continued to operate a trading post at Chaco, until he was shot and killed by a Navajo in 1910. He never left this place -- his bones rest under this stone. An amateur, probably someone who knew Wetherell, inscribes the words on that tombstone. The crudeness of the lettering, dimly seen through the shadows, adds a feeling of authenticity to the image.