After Muzaffarabad we journeyed through Muree, Islamabad, and Taxila (we stayed at a tea house at Jullian, right outside the gate of the Buddhist ruins). In Haripur we ran into Ghulam and his brother (the Afghani Koochies we had met in Kaghan). Then we headed up into the Gunger Hills towards the Tarbella Dam. We rode by graveyards with strange black slate engraved tombstones (like you see in this picture to the right of me). We stayed at a town call Sirikot on September 30th. The next morning about a half hour out of Sirikot we came across this mirror mosaic encrusted shrine.