The few stone huts of the village of Giti Das, where we stayed after crossing the Babu Sar. It was about 4km down from the top of the pass. We stayed by leave of Haji Batool, to whom we had a letter of introduction from some friends we had met in the village of Babu Sar, on the other side of the pass. Haji Batool and his people were there with their flocks. They were from Chilas. They told us to barricade ourselves inside the stone hut at night. They would be rounding up their flocks during the night and the dogs would be ferocious. I woke with the beginning light of dawn, shook the dirt out of my hair and crawled out of the hut to make uzu (ablution). The last of Haji Batool's camp were heading up the mountain with the last of the sheep. The lota of ice water I got from the river for uzu was freezing. We saddled the horses with hands freezing, the icy buckles burning into our fingers like ice fire.