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Brent E | all galleries >> climb >> Bancroft in March > Some thicker ice
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11-MAR-2007

Some thicker ice

A few more feet, another couple pins topped, and I was slinging a tiny cedar frozen in the ice. There was one screw below me – the couple I placed all hit rock after about 10cm so I chose one and tied it off! My one pick was beaten already from pounding on the ice below me so ice placements were interesting! My picks would sink, sometimes; the sharp one was fine, but the blunt one bounced out, off, and broke the ice.

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Brent E23-Mar-2007 15:44
most of that crap would have barely taken a stubby. But you're right, it would have been nice to have something else in to slow me down had I fallen. Truth is, it wasn't overly difficult. I'm sure Nate cruised it! But it's a little more interesting on lead over some boulders, as I'm sure you know! The crack left of that cedar was pretty bunk. The extremely thin crack on the bottom right i didn't consider. If you mean the mini cedar in the center of the frame, there were some pin scars there, but I didn't bother to place gear there as it was a bit low.
Grant 22-Mar-2007 22:49
Ahhh the thin ice delights of Southern Ontario. It certainly hones thin ice technique there. That is why a few stubbies are good to have and even though the 10cm screws are not UIAA certified, I bet you wished you had one or two at this point eh?
Looks like you could have made a pin placement down around that mini cedar, a couple of placements?