Orvieto today. Along the major north-south autostrada (toll road) through the middle of Italy lies (or lays, whatever!) this magnificent sight. Sitting atop a tufa outcrop 500 feet above the valley floor this citadel and town stands guard between Florence and Rome. With its easy access to the main highway, a dominating cathedral and winding streets of stone buildings it is a tourist leader and bus drivers delight. Thus it is a huge favorite for tourists; the ultimate easy access hill town, and large by hill town standards.

We spent four hours there and drove the 45 minutes back to the apartment. Today is Sunday so only some restaurants and tourist shops are open. The afternoon is deservedly spent recharging our body batteries for the attack of Tuscany week 2 beginning tomorrow.

This is the night Ann met Guiseppi at the Hotel Corys in Cortona. Our dinner reservations were at 7:30. Our one hour trip there took longer because one little town was having a festa so important that the streets of the town were closed so we had to alter our route (with no help from detour signs, of course). Same thing occurred in another town with some kind of motorcycle race going on. We did make it.

Guiseppi is all everything in the restaurant except chef (that duty falls to his wife who is the daughter of the manager of the hotel, Renate, whose wife is the grandmother of Guiseppi’s children and takes care of them while Guiseppi and his wife are at the restaurant). Is it a family business or Italian nepotism? Or is it that same thing?

Guiseppi remembered me. Ann talked food with him while he served us a wonderful two-and-a half-hour, four course meal of HIS choosing. Fresh porcini mushrooms were in season for the short season they have. Ann received a Porcini Seminar from him about these fungi complete with a porcini tasting menu for dinner. The dinner was a multi-table experience. The folks on one side of us in this tiny restaurant were from Houston and the ones on the other side from Montreal (French speaking, of course, but English, too). The main topic of conversation was about this jewel of a tiny restaurant and seven room hotel. I understood because I spent six days there 18 months ago and loved the experience: attention to detail, exceptional food, true care and concern by the staff and a smile from everyone that works there, always.

We all knew we had found a “home” in Italy and we would be treated as family when we returned in future times with hugs and smiles, and we all will return. The Montreal couple spent three days at the Hotel Corys their last time and are spending six days this time. Guiseppi runs the restaurant as one large family dinner even if we are each at separate tables ordering separate meals. He loves his restaurant, the food he serves, his knowledge of the dinner ingredients and his thorough understanding of Italian wines. He speaks Lebanese, Italian, French, English and passable German. Every person is his friend and wishes them the best meal he and his wife can produce.

After hugs and kisses from Guiseppi, we left. So lovely. So full of food. So far back home on dead dark, no moon, winding, narrow, very rural roads. Thank goodness we only had a half bottle of wine with dinner.

Lesson for Day 20: Nothing beats being remembered.