But when you go inside, it's time to drop the jaw. The lobby creates an atmosphere that's, well, surprising. Think of a 19th century Gentlemen's Club, in which ladies are welcome. Beneath Persian carpets, the floors are made of small, mosaic tiles, like those in a Roman bath. The walls are of dark wood and tile. Paintings depicting the city four hundred years ago adorn arched doorways. Dark timber beams span overhead. Heavy curtains separate the front and back halves of the lobby.

Jim Markowich