Amongst Abu Dhabi’s expatriates the most cherished social ritual was the Hash House Harriers, that loose fraternity of once-a-week joggers. Non Anglo-Saxons couldn't always grasp the simple bliss of spilling beer over one another's heads to wash off the sweat. Away from home one weekend, we burst back into the lobby of a provincial Hilton, blundering sweaty and breathless onto a red carpet awaiting the arrival of some sheikh at some tribal majlis or audience, finding ourselves face to face with an assembled honour guard of loyal retainers brandishing their ancient rifles.