I visited Vukovar about two weeks after it fell. I didn't have a clue what was going on, but Globus, the Zagreb weekly newspaper, figured I'd be able to roam around Serbian controlled areas without anybody getting upset. I took the train to Beograd and rented a car. It was an interesting time. There were very few people in the town, and most of them were quite traumatized. The place was absolutely shredded by explosives.