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Successful surfing requires an excellent sense of balance. To ride a moving board moving swiftly upon surging waves, a surfer steers with ever changing arm and leg movements. Staying the course is extremely challenging, and most surfing runs end with an abrupt dismount, such as we see here. Shooting at 1,4000th of a second, I was able to catch the instant when only a few of this surfer’s toes remain in contact with the board. His body becomes a study in imbalance, as he gradually falls into a virtually horizontal position. He echoes the horizontal thrust of the wave he rides, as well as my horizontal crop of the image itself.
Image Copyright © held by Phil Douglis, The Douglis Visual Workshops