Occupying the tallest of Lisbon's hills, the district of Alfama brims with the feel of times gone by and is the truly emblematic part of the city. Largely spared in the earthquake of 1755, it is still a maze of narrow streets and steep steps, dimly lit taverns, flower-laden iron balconies and diminutive squares. Almost certainly the best way to see the wonders of this district, besides walking of course, is to catch the old fashioned number 28 tram which wends its way through the ancient streets and hills, rattling round tight corners and buzzing angrily at parked cars in its path.Its layout and name stem from the Moors for whom narrow, confusingly arranged streets represented a defence as well as protection from the heat of the sun. Interestingly it is also home to a host of resplendent churches whose immense, beautiful structures tower protectively above the higgledy-piggledy clusters of simple tile-roofed houses. Historically the inspiration of many artists of pen, paint and film, Alfama has also provided the background imagery to many a nostalgic Fado song, and concerts are held in various establishments, although not as many as in Bairro Alto on the opposite hill.