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To best photograph this sport, I learned to track the surfers as they tried to select a suitable incoming wave, then lock focus on them as they tried to mount it, and finally follow the action with burst mode-shooting once they were up on the board and underway. This pair never mastered the treacherous quirks of this particular wave. Instead, they chose to ride it all the way to shore on their bellies, instead of their feet. The expressions on their faces at this moment best tell the story.
Image Copyright © held by Phil Douglis, The Douglis Visual Workshops