Between 8 and 9 in the morning, this market is maelstrom of activity. I stood on a stair landing just over its central court, where a line of entrenched women in traditional costume was selling fresh vegetables and other foods to buyers. They have earned the best location in the entire market. I was struck by the body language of the women sitting just below the religious icon within a glass case. Their arms suggest great patience, while the saintly figure in the case incongruously uses an energetic gesture to rally support for the sellers.