Day 7

I awoke this morning to the sound of a muffled roar in the dead dark at 6:30 am. Out of bed and to the window, I opened it to see 50-75 young adults spilling out around the door of a club drinking, laughing and thoroughly enjoying the end of an entire night of clubbing. Then as dawn began to break they headed to cafes for chocolate and churros. Just before the first direct rays of sunlight could hit them, the inebriated Spanish Dracula’s headed back to their coffins in their individual castles. It is quite an interesting ritual here in Spain.

Off we headed to the Royal Palace and Cathedral. The Metro is across the street from the hotel. We walk half a block and cross at McDonalds golden arches. Ah just like home. Three stops and a transfer then one stop and we were there but we knew not where. This was our stop but we could see neither the Palace nor Cathedral. The Spaniards who we ask for directions on the street are all so polite, kind and patient with us. We got to the Palacio Real but unfortunately the line to get in was obscene. Due to the holiday weekend the Palace will be closed after 2:00 today until Tuesday morning. EVERYONE in Madrid for the weekend had to see the Palace this Saturday morning or not at all. We fit that category. Oh well, that one was not in the travel books! Over 45 minutes later and having become great friends with the three women from Northern Ireland who were behind us, we entered.

Ann being Ann found out the senior discount was for 65+ and Europeans only. Sweet talking the young man taking our money, she got us in for the discounted $15 rather than full $24. I am sure few women lie about their age to be older (after 21 years, of course) and to be considered a European! My dear bride did that unabashedly.

The Palacio Real was a palace like many of Europe and having no great distinctive features to make it memorable. The Cathedral, on the other hand, was quite interesting. Begun in 1880 it took over 100 years to complete. This is a neo-classical church with a modern look in a classic medieval frame. Unique.

Lunch was at Casa Botin just off the Plaza Major. This is the restaurant where Ernest Hemingway finished the manuscript for The Sun Also Rises. It is very expensive but when does one get a chance to dine with the ghost of Ernest Hemingway? Well not us. I lied. We ate across the lane at a more reasonably priced restaurant sitting at the tables outside enjoying the perfect temperatures and people watching. But I bet Ernie’s ghost walked past us on the way to the Case Botin. That is good enough for me.

Traveling with Ann is interesting to say the least. Her idea of a grand hour or so is to go the Corte Ingles department store. In the basement was the huge supermarket. Ann went in under the guise of looking for smoked paprika (Thanks for that Marian). She never found any but perused all manner of food we do not have at Safeway. I spent the time in the upscale gourmet wine and food shop looking at rather expensive wine. Each bottle had one of those white plastic things that prevent stealing – like on leather coats and such. A bottle of 2004 Chateau Petrus from the Pomerol in the Bordeaux area could be had for a mere 2500 euro. I passed and bought a 3 euro Rioja in the poor folk’s grocery store figuratively pocketing the 2497 euro I did not spend on wine. Wow, this vacation is almost free!

Now, after our mini-siesta, we are headed across the street to get some culture and larnin’ at the Reina Sofia Museum – which is free this evening. In the museum I am excited to be able to view Picasso’s Guernica. That is the painting showing the horror of the Nazi bombing (with Franco’s blessing) of the Basque village of Guernica, leveling it and killing untold thousands during the Spanish Civil War. It is a startling piece of art when viewed in a book. I can only imagine it in person…

…Well, that was even better than I had anticipated. There it was in person 40’ or so wide 10’ high. In addition were all of his preparatory drawings of detail and sketches of the scene to be. What a disturbing memorial to the horror of war rained down upon innocent civilians.