Route from Treasure/Abbot Col to NE Couloir of Mt. Abbot indicated.
Good snow coverage for July allowed crampons and ice axe to be used from the col
to halfway up the chute. Extreme loose sand and rock calls for caution (3rd class) on the ledges leadingright and upwards. Once upon the ridge, the rock becomes much cleaner and enjoyable, with a
narrow 'catwalk' no more than four feet wide just before the summit plateau. Route finding involved crossing the knife edge ridge from east to west several times. Rap station is set up at top of couloir for those with ropes.
Base camp at Treasure Lakes, 11,150' to summit of Mt. Abbot, 13,715' plus two mile approach.
Round trip was a bit more than eight hours, including 45 mins. enjoying the summit.