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On the south-west corner of the island lies Galle Fort, built by the Dutch in 1663 and occupying a 36-hectare promontory protecting a natural harbour to the north. It was the harbour that attracted first the Portuguese and then the Dutch to fortify this strategic location, but after the British consolidated their takeover of the island in the early 19th century Colombo rose to prominence and Galle rapidly declined in importance. Unlike many other UNESCO World Heritage Sites, however, Galle remains very much a thriving community with several thousand residents (a majority of whom are Muslims), schools, law courts, and an active business community. It is said to be one of the best preserved examples of 17th century colonial fortifications in the world. A highlight is a sunset walk around the Fort's ramparts as the daytime heat dissipates and residents came out to enjoy the best time of day. Boys gather to play cricket and soccer on the streets or the small open spaces, young lovers wander hand-in-hand lost in their dreams of the future, and families stroll leisurely laughing with their children as the sun dips, almost unnoticed, into the Indian Ocean. It is a moment in life that will be forever hard to forget.
The Annual Ceylon Elephant Polo Association Tournament takes place each February in Galle, on a sandy field just outside the Fort ramparts. The game is played on a field two thirds the size of a horse polo ground with three elephants a side – each guided by a mahout with the player strapped on behind and wielding a very long thin mallet. Some elephant/mahout combinations are a lot more effective than others, so to avoid bias, the teams switch elephants at half time. It is a fun event, and picturesquely located between the Fort walls and the sea.
The stretch of coast between Galle and Colombo is quite densely populated, and instances of tsunami damage are ubiquitous. Whole stretches of buildings along the beach and further inland were reduced to their foundations. Many have yet to be rebuilt – perhaps because their occupiers died in the tragedy. Thousands lost their lives here, including 1,500 on a train which runs right along the coast. A real gem some ten kilometres inland from Bentota is Bevis Bawa's, house and garden, known as "Brief". Brother of Geoffrey, Bevis was also an architect and designer, and he started "Brief" in 1929. It is a wildly romantic place, full of nooks and crannies and offering new perspectives whenever you turn a corner, both inside the house and in the extensive gardens.