Although less preserved than the Royal Enclosure, this royal compound known as Kuskuam is equally captivating. It offers an impressive mix of views over the countryside, each dramatically framed by the complex's crumbling remnants. It was built in 1730 for the redoubtable Empress Mentewab, after the death of her husband (Emperor Bakaffa).

Like the Royal Enclosure, it's made up of a series of buildings including a long, castellated palace used for state receptions and to house the royal garrison. Its exterior is decorated with red volcanic tuff; spot the figures of crosses and Ethiopian characters and animals, such as St Samuel riding his lion.

The nearby smaller building is said to have been the empress' private residence. To residence's west used to be a fine church. However, after damage from British bombing, it had to be rebuilt. A tiny glass-roofed coffin in its crypt contains the skeletons of the empress, her son and her grandson, the Emperors Iyasu II and Iyo'as.

The complex lies in the hills 3.5km northwest of town.