Works Performance GL1800 Shock with OEM Honda pre-load adjuster |
Works GL1800 Shock |
The rebound dampening is adjustable via an allen screw on the bottom of the shock |
The spring has a 1,100 lb spring rate. The OEM shock has a 900 lb spring rate. |
Here is a look at the OEM shock side by side with the Works Performance shock |
You can tell see a difference in the springs and shock body. |
First, remove the rear wheel cover |
Next, remove the seat |
Then remove the cover for the latch assy inside the trunk |
Trim comes right off, once the two screws in the trunk are removed |
Remove the four screws in the trunk (two each side) that hold on the trim pieces |
Side trunk trim piece removed. Not two plastic threaded tangs that the screws go into |
The rear trim piece is screwed on from the outside, and the srews are exposed once the side pieces are removed |
Rear trim comes off after the two screws are removed |
Screw locations inside trunk for trunk bottom cover |
Screw location inside trunk for trunk bottom cover. |
Trunk bottom cover has two screws back by the tail lights that hold it on. |
Trunk trim pieces removed |
Keep hardware inside cups and seperated so you know what screws go back where. Most of the trim screws are all the same. |
Trunk bottom cover pulls down and aft once all the screws are removed |
Trunk bottom cover removed |
Next, dissconnect the cables for the saddlebag latches |
Note saddlebag cable pulled free |
Now you have to find this connector and dissconnect it |
The red plugs are for the left bag and the blue plugs are for the right saddlebag |
Now you can start unbolting the four bolts that hold on the saddlebag |
Saddlebag inner bolt removal |
Outter saddlebag bolt removal |
Once the bolts are out, pull the bag out at the bottom and down making sure to clear the pocket at the top |
saddlebag is now free |
Saddle bag removed |
Now you can see the frame rails for the bags |
Dirty bike. Dust collects all over the back end. |
The next step is removing the top shelter and gas tank (covered in another photo series) |
I hosed off all the dust and tried to clean it up as best I could before going any further |
When you get the tank out, be sure to tighten these hose clamps. There are three more under these too. |
I turned the hose clamps. Cover them with hard rubber material to prevent them from rubbing a hole in the bottom of the gas tank |
Here is the first look at the top shock mount |
I also took this opportunity to inspect all my welds |
Unplug the connector on the side of the unit |
Weld checking |
Next I removed the three bolts holding on the electrical/hydralic pre-load unit |
This connector also has to be disconnected |
Unpluged connector |
Here is the bottom shock bolt |
Removing bottom shock bolt |
Bottom shock bolt pulled out |
Top shock bolt |
You have to hold both sides of the top shock bolt to remove it. One side uses an allen, the other a socket |
Top shock bolt removed |
Once both bolts are out, the shock comes right off |
When I removed the right saddlebag, I discovered the vent cap for the rear end was missing! |
Here is a look at the top of the piston inside the rear shock hydralic drive unit, with the motor removed |
Here you can see the worm drive and the plunger on the right angle drive unit and the housing for the hydralic unit. |
Here is a closer look at the plunger and worm drive on the motor |
Here is the simple piston, removed from the chamber |
Here is another look with the piston re-installed |
Refilling the unit through the bango bolt hole. I recommend 5 weight Honda suspension fluid (not the brake fluid pictured) |
New Hole added under damper |
Damper unit |
ProgressiveRearSpring.jpg |
RearShockActuator.jpg |
ActuatorGap.jpg |