Checking pads with wheel installed. Lay down and look up at the bottom of the calipers |
You can see the top side by looking down in through the fender with a light |
First I removed the fender and wheel |
I left the caliper bolts threaded in enough to hold the caliper |
Then I removed the bolts on the rear of the caliper |
You don't have to remove the back just to replace the pads, but it makes cleaning the pistons easier. |
Now I remove the plug over the brake pad pin bolt |
And then I remove the bolt |
When you pull the pin bolt out, be ready for the pads to fall out. |
Now I carefully clean the pistons with a toothbrush and soapy water to get all the grunge off. |
Then I blow it dry with compressed air to make sure all the soap and grit is gone |
I follow this up with a bit of de-natured alcohol |
Now I can push the pistons back in with my thumbs |
Here you can see my old pads are down to 2mm. They could still be used for a while longer, but at 1mm they should be replaced |
Here is a comparison to the new pads, which are just over 4mm |
4mm on the new pads |
Left and Right side front pads |
Wear indicators are at about 1mm |
Wear indicators are at about 1mm |
Here is a look at the back half of the caliper with anti-rattle spring. Note the irregular edge faces out. |
Here is a look at the anti-rattle spring. |
You can feel how the caliper moves on the slides by pushing on the black portion with the wheel removed |
Here is a look at the upper left slide. This needs to be greased |
Here is a better look at the slide under the rubber boot |
Here is a look at the lower left slide. |
I carefully smeared some high temp grease into the boot and on the slider |
The right side brake slides are easier to get at, as you can remove the whole caliper, and expose the slides. |
Here is another look at the right side caliper slides |
I smear High Temp grease on both slide bars. |
Here I get the other slide. |
I also grease the bushing on the left caliper for the anti-dive system |
Here I use brake cleaner to clean the rotors |
Here is a look at how the top of the pads are held in |
See how both pads fit into the retainer clip. |
Here is a look at how the pad is held in both top and bottom |
There is a small o-ring on the end of the pad pin |
To install the new pads, I first install the pin into the pads and let them hang. |
Now I align the inboard pad with the left edge of the caliper bracket and push it up into place. |
Once it is up all the way, you have to slide the caliper bracet back to get the top notch in the pad into the retainer |
Here the pad is fully inserted and the top notch is in the retainer |
Inboard left side pad installed and caliper shifted over to facilitate installing outboard pad |
Do the outboard pad the same way. |
This gave me a good opotunity to clean the forks lowers and fender inside real good. |
Tweaking Rotor Carrier on a Kawasaki Concours |
SecondaryBrakeClevis 001a.JPG |
SecondaryBrakeClevis 002a.JPG |
GL1800BrakeRecall.JPG |
The left inboard pad always wears out first on the GL1800 |
AirBagLeftSide.jpg |
AirBagRightBrake.png |
PadReplace.jpg |