This day, we headed to the Western Fjords, hoping to be able to see puffins the next day. Along the way, we stopped at the site of the first monestary in Iceland (now just a free-standing church, but a beautiful one) and went on a "Wild Seal Chase". We'd read that they can be found basking in the sun off a farm along the road. When we drove past, the gate to the road was closed, so we continued on to check if there was an alternative, but there wasn't. So we turned around, ready to ask permission. Low and behold, the gate was open. This was the worst bit of driving of the whole trip!!! When we finally got to the bottom of the road, we met the farmer who informed us that we were on private property (so far, that hadn't made a difference) and that there was a colony of eiderducks breeding so we weren't allowed on the beach. What a disappointment! We did take pictures from the distance and I've done some major cropping just to be able to say "we saw seals"!
Anyhow, we ended up in the most beautiful accommodation of the whole trip, and ended the evening with a (extremely expensive) bottle of wine ... from California! and a beautiful sunset (the only one we saw, it was basically light during all our waking hours), plus the promise of puffins for the next day (and without having to drive 8 hours to see them!)