During my September 2011 visit I was in for a nasty surprise. Here I am at the Elmalı Church, of which I have a sub-gallery. Whereas I visited this church earlier with just a sleepy guard asking from time time to time if I did not use flash, this time there was a five or ten minute waiting time, after which a group of say twenty people was allowed in for a visit of three minutes, during which taking pictures was strictly forbidden. I waited for a while, but seeing busload upon busload of tourists make their entry into the small square in front of the entrance, I decided to leave the church alone.

This pattern repeated itself in all but the most mundane churches. The ones of which I show frescos in the sub-galleries now are all subject to the same crowding and regime. I took some pictures of the mundane churches, and some of the eating or kitchen areas near some monasteries, then left, having seen hundreds of people making a tour I myself wanted to avoid.

I may see what matters are like on a dreary December day, but I think a visit when the crowds are on the move for my part is out for the future.