Near a hotel I visited tens of times, in an area where I thought I knew every street, I found I had ignored one street, and a former hammam in it. Its main room now houses shows of whirling dervishes, but a large part of the hammam, still recognisable, is an Işhan: a conglomerate of small industry and shops. You can find such conglomerates all over the old town, and they sometimes show former splendour mixed with modern trades.