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The unpretentious pearl of the barrier reef

While few actually carry out their threat, thankfully there's a tiny oasis that has effectively made that decision for you.

Lady Elliot Island, at the southern end of Queensland's Great Barrier Reef, is a little-known, low-key holiday destination at ease with her natural beauty (and limited mobile coverage).

She's a far cry from the slick, heavily-branded resort islands to the north, but what she lacks in oddly-shaped swimming pools and over-priced buffets she makes up for with a stunning landscape and raw surrounds.

STeve Irwin used to love to swim with the turtles and surf the reef break at Lady Elliot Island.

That essentially sums up the difference. Extravagance on Lady Elliot is purely of the eco-variety.

It's easy to get up close and personal with the wide array of marine life that surrounds the island, which is just 40 hectares in area.

Lady Elliot is best known for its excellent scuba diving and snorkelling, as its position far offshore - 85 kilometres north-east of Bundaberg - and southern location within the Barrier Reef creates unrivalled water clarity.

Another bonus is that there is no "stinger" season from November to May that affects the northern islands, so visitors are able to swim year-round.

Within seconds of entering the water, I was surrounded by a huge spectrum of tropical fish (the bizarre Trumpetfish being my favourite), octopuses, sea urchins, bright starfish and bizarre coral formations.

Even though I was warned by the staff to expect sharks - albeit of the tame variety - I still felt like my eyeballs filled my goggles when I spotted a white-tipped reef shark. Over a metre in length, it was as if he lurked up to say g'day to the tourist, with an assured wink and a nod.

The iconic residents of Lady Elliot, however, are the turtles and manta rays.

I was stunned at how unfazed the loggerhead turtle was that I swum next to.

"He's about 130 years old," said Laura, my guide on the glass-bottom boat tour, "He's seen it all."

Every year between November and March, green and loggerhead turtles ready to breed manage to find the same beach on which they were born more than 50 years ago, and up to nine times in a season lay between 80 and 120 eggs per clutch.

Just like my earlier encounter with a shark, the sight of manta rays gliding through the water was initially unnerving.

Despite being the largest of all ray species - some have a wingspan of nine metres - they're completely harmless as they have no barb in their tail.

The mantas are graceful and sociable, mixing with snorkellers just metres away as they feed on plankton close to the surface of the water.

While Lady Elliot Island first appeared above sea level roughly 3500 years ago, the island saw little human activity (apart from guano mining during the 1860s and 1870s) until a conservationist, Don Adams, started a revegetation program and built an airstrip in 1969.

In 1985, an eco-resort was established, and now the island boasts a variety of accommodation - from suites to tent cabins - that can host up to 150 overnight guests.

Guests can also opt for a quick day visit, although flying and scuba diving on the same day is not permitted for safety reasons.

The steady schedule of activities - such as reef-walking, fish feeding, bird watching - and the intimacy of the eco-resort makes it easy to interact with other guests and the knowledgeable staff, many of whom are marine biologists.

Brad, the head chef, is one that encapsulates the spirit of living in such a unique environment.

"I grew up in South Africa, I've lived and worked through 14 European countries over the past decade, and Lady Elliot is one of the most beautiful places I've seen," he enthused.

Reaching Lady Elliot is an experience in itself; more a scenic flight than a simple mode of transport to start a holiday.

Jumping on a 10-seater plane in Hervey Bay, the 40-minute flight past Fraser Island is a chance to spot migrating humpback whales heading up the Queensland coastline, as well as the manta rays and turtles dotting the clear blue water surrounding the coral cay.

Be prepared for the grass airstrip.

But more importantly, be prepared to leave your mobile phone at home.

IF YOU GO

Visit Ladyelliot.com.au

Daily Seair Flights operate from Hervey Bay (Fraser Coast) and Bundaberg. Flights available from Brisbane (Redcliffe), Gold Coast (Coolangatta) and Sunshine Coast (Maroochydore) subject to booking numbers. Visit Seairpacific.com.au.


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