The citadel of Mdina, ancient capital of Malta, presents two faces to the visitor. In the mornings - especially on a Friday, when the cruise liners approach Malta - its streets are packed with scores of tourists. In the evenings, however, when day-trippers have left, Mdina becomes as quiet as a ghost town; strolling around its narrow streets with the buildings of exquisite architecture is a pleasure to the eyes and an unforgettable romantic experience, as unwinding as a complete, day-long spa treatment. The visitor can't help but envy the few permanent residents of Mdina, most of whom are prominent members of the Maltese nobility.

With a few exceptions, cars are not allowed within the fortified town. Leaving the car outside and passing through its ancient Main Gate is like a passage through time.