Flying Into ANWR
Our trip into ANWR, through Equinox Wilderness Expeditions, began the morning of June 24, 2009 with a flight from Fairbanks Airport to Kaktovik (Barter Island) via Frontier Flying Service.
Upon our arrival in Kaktovik we would be ferried into ANWR via Waldo Arms Flying Service aboard a Bush Plane. We also received updates of where folks thought the Caribou Herds were moving and what would be the best place to set up camp. After a round of discussion, we felt setting up along the Aichilik River would be the best location, since some other groups were camped near there and they had good reports about Caribou moving through the area. High winds would delay our flight into ANWR for several hours, and we also would be flown in one at a time with the pilot since the ony aircraft that was available was a Piper Cub.
Later that evening the winds died down and we were flown in one at a time, landing on a gravel bar along the Aichilik River - our guide first, then Dan and finally Peggie. We set up a Tent Base Camp along the Aichilik River just inside the foothills. The camp consisted of the two sleeping tents and a cooking/food storage tent.
Base Camp Location Along The Aichilik River In ANWR
Shown on the map (Credit: U.S. Geological Survey) is the location of our Base Camp in ANWR from June 24 - 29, 2009.
We hiked in various directions each day to photograph the landscape, plants, tundra and herds of Caribou as they passed through. Most days, starting in the early morning, we hiked through a few of the first shallow river channels and then set up the tripod and camera on a gravel bar, hiding between the willows. Caribou herds would work their way down over the passes across the river and gradually cross either up stream or down stream from our location. At times we would have herds cross very near our location, other times they would cross miles away. We estimate that we saw over 8,000 total caribou migrate during our time on the Aichilik River. We also observed three Gray Wolves, all moving through as singles. One Gray Wolf did approach our camp area.
Camera equipment used: Gitzo 3540LS Tripod, Wimberly Gimbal Tripod Head, (2)Nikon D2X Camera Bodies, AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D Lens, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8D Lens IF-ED, AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G IF-ED Lens, AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor 200-400mm f/4G IF-ED Lens, Nikon AF-I Teleconvertor TC-14E, (3)spare EN-EL4A Li-On Battery Packs, Multiple 4Gb and 8Gb Lexar Professional CompactFlash Cards
Photographing The Caribou
The following five photographs are a good representation of the the Caribou Herds as they moved through the Aichilik River area near our Base Camp.
This first photograph is an example of a large Bull Caribou that we seen crossing the Tundra the first day in the evening after we arrived.
Photographing The Caribou
This photograph is a good example of a Herd of over one hundred Caribou crossing one of the downstream Aichilik river channels right in front of us.
Photographing The Caribou
This photograph is of a Caribou Cow and a very young Calf, perhaps born only hours before, that was unable to keep up with a Caribou Herd that moved through the Aichilik River area.
The Cow was very patient and stayed near the Calf. The Calf laid down on a gravel bar and rested for about 15 minutes. The Cow would run ahead to the next gravel bar to try and coax the Calf to follow. The Cow would grunt to the Calf, and the Calf would respond back with a grunt. There was almost an hour of the Cow running back and forth to the the gravel bar where the Calf was, and then ahead to the next gravel bar. There was one short nursing during this time period and several other attempts by the Calf to nurse, which were rebuffed by the Cow. Finally the Calf began following the Cow and they crossed the final four river channels to get to the bank. They both ran off to find a new herd to join.
This whole mini drama was one of the highlights of our trip.
Photographing The Caribou
This Cow and Calf Caribou running together across a gravel bar in the Aichilik River was very typical of the large number of Cow and Calf Caribou that we seen throughout our stay in ANWR.
Photographing The Caribou
This is a photogaph of another large Caribou Herd crossing the Aichilik River upstream from our location on a gravel bar.
A Gray Wolf Visits Our Base Camp
One of the days after returning to our Base Camp from photographing in the Aichilik River, I heard shouts. A Gray Wolf had decided to wander into our Camp area and smell around. Shouts and other loud noises chased him off.
A few minutes later he returned a second time and we again had to chase him off with shouts and other loud noises. He wandered off over the Tundra.
We also saw two other Gray Wolves, traveling by themselves, wander through the area on other days.
Leaving ANWR
On the morning of June 29th after a breakfast and few final photographs, we broke down our camp since we would be leaving ANWR before noon. We were picked up by a Helio Courier Bush Plane to return to Kaktovik (Barter Island). We were able to get all four of us (Pilot, Guide, Peggie and myself) into the plane along with our gear and make a single trip back to Kaktovik.
Later in the day we returned back to Fairbanks Airport via Frontier Flying Service.
An awesome trip that I would recommend, if nothing else to experience the remote, rugged and beatiful Arctic National Wildlife Refuge! I would highly recommend making the trip as part of a guided expedition, because they will know the refuge, provide the proper camping, cooking and safety equipment, and allow you to be able to focus on your interest - be it hiking, photography or just kick back and enjoy.
Overall the weather was cool, low 30's at night, 40's during the day, and windy most days which kept the mosquitos and flies away. We had rain during an entire night and into part of the next day. We had other showers pass through as well, both during the night and day. Most of the time it was cool, foggy in the morning and cloudy during most days.
Enjoy the rest of the photographs in the gallery!
